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> Quagmire Area
Quagmire Crack
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 38
votes
Routes in Quagmire Area
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Canadian Compromise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fungus Razor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Id, The Wizard of T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quagmire Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sodfancier's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Robin Barley, Andreas Maurer, Kevin McLane, 1976, recleaned in 1998 by Andrew Boyd. |
| Page Views: | 4,392 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Jun 24, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a great finger crack and I am surprised to not already find it here. MP seems to not have caught on in Squamish, at least not the off the beaten path routes.
It is listed as 10c in the books, seems lots harder then Bulletheads east or Peasants route, more like the last Liquid Gold pitch so maybe 10d.( was considered 10b in the 1970/80's) Maybe it is the approach.
A good way to climb out would be on Jacobs other Ladder which is a 5.8 dyke traverse just above which is described as being bold, and it is.
It is listed as 10c in the books, seems lots harder then Bulletheads east or Peasants route, more like the last Liquid Gold pitch so maybe 10d.( was considered 10b in the 1970/80's) Maybe it is the approach.
A good way to climb out would be on Jacobs other Ladder which is a 5.8 dyke traverse just above which is described as being bold, and it is.
Location
If you look at the Malamute photo on the header of this page taken from the log yard across the railway you will see an obvious white rock fall scar at the north end ( occurred in 1979) and the corner in the middle of this is Canadian Compromise and long splitter crack above is Quagmire. We rapped in with double ropes( at top of Besot and Flushed) and ended up at the very rusty bolts of Milkwood Forest. Rapped to base and fought our way up through moss past 2) 1/4" bolts and loose flake- not recommended.( original start of Porco on the first ascent.)
The McLane book recommends the Smithereens approach, I noticed bolts over there without hangers.
Rapping down Stone Cold would put you right above Quagmire if you wanted to rap. 2 rope rap.
The McLane book recommends the Smithereens approach, I noticed bolts over there without hangers.
Rapping down Stone Cold would put you right above Quagmire if you wanted to rap. 2 rope rap.
Protection
It is 40- 45 Meter pitch so having many finger size is recommended. Double rack to 3", maybe 3 each in the 1/4"- 1/2" size or lots of nuts work too. Bolted belay on ledge at base and tree belay at top. There is a 2 bolt anchor about 10' north but I came up the OW finish which seems to make sense with a tree right there.I was not prepared for the OW, placed a #2 at start of it and layback up to top, could use a #4, but not really needed.I was informed by a local that the OW finish used to be full of vegetation and I guess that is why there is the bolted anchor off left at the top.
5 Comments