Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Duane Raleigh, Schooley 1976
Page Views: 3,500 total · 17/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Mar 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A long (for one pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first bolt using moderate friction climbing.

Route Description Suggest change

Route starts essentially the same as Great Expectations and the Dihedral. From the start, veer right onto the steep slab past the first bolt, then continue up to a horizontal crack where a small cam can be placed.  Continue up past another bolt and stay in the middle of the slab as the first ascent was while wearing Nike tennis shoes.  The vertical crack to the left is off route.  The bolts were added sometime after the first ascent.

Protection Suggest change

Two bolts, small cams (3/4 inch to 2 inch), two rap bolts for anchor at top.

Descent Suggest change

  1. Connect two 60m ropes and rap from Nike’s anchor.
  2. Rap from Nike’s anchors and quickly traverse climbers left to Great Expectations anchor by a small tree. Rap again from here. Use a 70m rope or a few feet of downclimbing will be required. Knot your rope ends!

Photos

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