Retiring BD Guide

The braking "teeth" are totally worn off of my BD guide on both slots and worn to the base metal of the belay device teeth. At what point do you all decide to retire these devices?

I had two friends who worn an ATC Guide down and had to retire it. The middle part ( under the hole for guide mode) got sharp enough to cut a rope.

Those two traveled in a van for two years climbing all over North America. I thought that was the coolest thing...

I would add that the teeth only provide some extra friction and are not necessary for safety. The original ATC is smooth and toothless. However, if the teeth are worn, other areas of the device may be worn, too, necessitating a replacement.

Edit: It sounds like you aren't sure, or don't trust your judgment, so just buy a new one.

Black Diamond ATC (not the "ATC Guide")

ATC XP (added teeth to the regular ATC)

ATC Guide

Did not know the originals had no teeth, will definitely keep using. Was just curious what the 'norm' was for the device. Use a grigri now anyway so it's kind of moot.

I retired my ATC guide this year. It was worn well past the teeth being smooth and was getting thin in some critical areas. I replaced it with a DMM pivot. Climbed probably 20 pitches with it in last few weeks. One thing I noticed right away is the plating hasn't worn off. The BD devices almost immediately wore through the anodizing. DMM did something different and it looks almost new despite well over a thousand feet of raps plus normal multipitch belays and carries! Super impressed so far just with durability.

Replaced my Guide recently because the lip of the 'tube' was worn to being sharp. I did notice that one side was less worn than the other, so I used that less worn side in the gym for a while. I too would not worry about the teeth at all, unless you're belaying on 9mm rope...

Replacement device was a MegaJul.

Medic741 wrote:The braking "teeth" are totally worn off of my BD guide on both slots and worn to the base metal of the belay device teeth. At what point do you all decide to retire these devices?

For someone who is soooooo passionate about saftey, that sure is a silly question. Arent you the same feller who blasted the poor guy in JTree for trying to help someone? And I mean BLASTED.

How long have you been putting your climbing partners at risk by using this jive ass belay device of yours?

Can you see us through that glass house you been livin in???

I wouldn't make a blanket statement such as the teeth don't matter. And, comparing the guide to the old atc is not apples to apples either. The old atc forces the rope in a tighter radius than the guide. Whereas the guide, on the high friction side, is a broader radius, but relies, in part, on the V slot, and teeth to play a role in friction. So, when the teeth are worn off, not only do you lose some friction that the teeth provided, you now have a rounded slot or U slot. Certainly, friction is compromised.

Is it unsafe?

Well, if you are using "fat", dirty ropes, and climb with hang doggers that yell take, then maybe it is not super critical. But, if you are using "skinny", slick ropes and your partner takes a good whip without warning, well...

The answer, well, as usual, it depends. If you partner's life is worth more than 28 bucks, you might want to replace it.

I have used the DMM pivot. It seems like an improvement over the guide.

There are NO TEETH whatsoever on my spring-loaded Sticht plate. Is it safe?

Medic741 wrote:The braking "teeth" are totally worn off of my BD guide on both slots and worn to the base metal of the belay device teeth. At what point do you all decide to retire these devices?

I retired mine after I threw it off a cliff in Chamonix. Well, I didn't exactly retire it... just couldn't find it at the base. But seriously, the Guide works fine without teeth. Just be sure it doesn't have any other wear patterns as others have noted that could damage a rope.

Jake Jones wrote: Goddammit, Greg.

Shit. You got me. Poor eye site.

Greg D wrote: site.

Goddammit, Greg.

Your welcome.

Greg D wrote:Your .

Goddamnit Greg.

I consider my ATC Guides as just starting to get good when the teeth are nearly worn down.

Gunkiemike wrote:There are NO TEETH whatsoever on my spring-loaded Sticht plate. Is it safe?

YES,
it's safe as long as any teeth that do form do so outside the slots
your old but as you know you'll be fine.
Rudolpho?