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Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> N Bend & Vicinity
> Exit 38
> Far Side
> Neverland
> (d) Lost Boys
I Wanna Go Home
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 89
votes
Routes in (d) Lost Boys
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I Can Fly! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Wanna Go Home S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost My Marbles S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Plank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seize the Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sleep or Awake? S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Garth Bruce, Drew Fletcher & Dave Perkins (2005) |
| Page Views: | 6,308 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Aug 28, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
I Wanna Go Home is a 2 pitch line on the far left side of Lost Boys. The first pitch is typical "juggy" exit 38 climbing, while the second is quite slabby.
P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.
P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.
This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.
P1. Begin up a small face, climbing over a small lip about 15 feet up. This felt like the crux to me; non-descript climbing continues to the anchor.
P2. The second pitch starts up a steep, blank face before pulling around a roof and the corner above. This felt more exposed than I expected from the ground; make use of the arete and think things through-- a short but unprotected fall on the anchor/ledge is a possibility. After turning the corner, make a step over a small lip and onto a slab, using the arete as you ascend. Near the top, fight the urge to stay with the arete when the bolt line pulls you right.
This is a 35m line, and both pitches can easily led as one with no drag.
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