South Lake Tahoe - October Climbing

Hi all,

I'm spending a week in South Lake Tahoe in mid-October and looking for the best climbing options that time of year. Obviously the Leap, Phantom Spires, and Sugarloaf (I am expecting cool mornings in the shade and hot afternoons in the sun, yes?)..... but what other places will be "in season" that time of year? East facing stuff will probably be best I presume.

The Fortress? Eagle Lake? Lots of stuff on MP, but hard to know aspect and that'll be important in October I presume.

Cheers
Andy

Andy,

It totally depends on temps. Personally I'd rather be a bit cold as opposed to hot/sweaty. If it's not too cold I wouldn't miss Eagle Lake. It gets morning shade (shade until early to mid afternoon actually) but I've climbed there in October many times and it's not bad. The climbs there are stellar. The setting is top notch as well. My favorite crag in S Tahoe.

The Leap, Spires, and Sugarloaf aren't to be missed either. They should be fine that time of year. Chase shade if it's warm and sun if it's cool and windy. Sugarloaf is lowest elevation and the warmest.

A day trip to Donner to hit up Snowshed Wall is recommended as well. It's stacked with amazing climbs. It's got an East Wall that gets morning sun/afternoon shade. The main face that faces the parking lot gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Tends to be cool and windy.

Black Wall up by Donner is also rad. Morning sun and afternoon shade. Tends to bake in the sun unless it's cool.

For the visiting climber I think those are the best spots Tahoe has to offer for trad climbing. I might get ostracized for saying this but Woodfords is so/so IMO. The rock quality is not as good in general and the good climbs are more spread out. One of these days crag would be my top vote if you want to hit up Woodfords. Gets shade until mid-afternoon and tends to be cool. Fortress is good as well (especially Sun Wall) but it bakes in the sun and will probably be too hot. I've climbed here mid winter in a T shirt.

Lovers Leap gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Spires is a mixed bag but the Upper Spire gets sun most of the day. Sugarloaf has an E and W aspect, so easy to find sun/shade.

Calaveras Dome isn't too far away either and might be worth a visit if you can squeeze it in.