best beginner trad climbs on lemmon?
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I am looking for a good beginner trad route to get my feet wet on, suggestions? |
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It's been awhile, but Agatha Christie (Direct) on the North Fin, (5.8) might be a good start? |
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Rabbit Tracks 5.6/7 at Turret Rock is great for placing gear. Jambrosia 5.8 is nearby and is also really good. Same goes for Caterpiller Corner 5.8.
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Two ideas: |
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Black Quacker 4 pitch 5.7, One of my favorite Summit climbs. There is a cool 5.6 trad I used to rope solo on the face of the arête at Left Hand Wall. |
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safe cracker (the 5.6 one) at Prison Camp |
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Black Quacker, Slippery When Wet and Standard Route are good first trad multi-pitch, but you better make sure you have sport multi-pitch experience (lots of good 2 pitch easy sport on Lemmon), and know how to build a good gear anchor first. I would recommend Safe Cracker, Petty Theft, Dragon's Arete, and George's Buttress as good single pitch routes with bolted anchors. Another good choice might be to get on a mostly bolted multipitch route in the Stronghold like Ewephoria or Peacemaker (higher commitment level there). Also, get a good trad book like Climbing Anchors and practice everything at the base of a cliff, preferably with an expert nearby to inspect.
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Honestly drive to oak creek overlook. There are pantloads of moderates, way easier to learn there than Lemmon or stronghold. But if you can't, take comfort that if you like gear climbs here you'll be ok anywhere. Just be careful. Don't run it out to be cool. |
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I suggest checking out chimney rock, good to start on, and all around good. |
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While my first lead was on safe cracker at prison camp I would also suggest setting up a TR on agatha Christie direct and dialing in your gear placements on top rope then leading when you feel comfortable. Super fun route |
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Mt Lemmon trad isn't a bunch of obvious, splitter cracks. It's mostly trad-protected face and corner climbing. |
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Stay away from Hai Karate. Even if you go up the correct way, it's IMO kind of a crummy route. Agatha Christie can be easily toproped and mock-led. Takes gear so well, too. You can put your entire rack in that climb. There is one section that is kind of steep and tricky so you might not want to go for the onsight. Safe Cracker and Petty Theft at Prison Camp are good. Rabbit Tracks at Windy Point is good as well. Too bad it's such a pain to get to! |
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Generally speaking gear can be quite finicky on Mount Lemmon. Be very careful when learning to trad climb here as many of the placements require some finesse to get them in well. |
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I remember having some fun at green slabs. Several 5.7s. Make sure to pull test your cams, they can pop right out even if it looks secure. Gneiss is finicky with placements. Also, if you haven't done Hitchcock pinnacle, (beta warning!!!) bring a #2 for the small crack and a draw to clip the bolt. The 5.7 starts on the platform, and you could move left for a 5.8 move or two if memory serves correct.. Anything Geir says is verbal gold btw. |
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Fun, easy, 2 minute approach... |