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Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area
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Amnesia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Captain Morgan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diamond Cutter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Duncan's Lieback T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying Cojone Brothers T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Gooseneck Couloir T AI1 Mod. Snow |
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Junior's High T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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M&M Diagonal T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Marie Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Medicine Bow Peak SE Slopes Easy Snow |
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Overhang Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
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Red Spot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Red Spot Alternate Start T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Summer Solstice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Frisby/Jaquot/Mathiesen '65 |
| Page Views: | 6,714 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Petsfed 00 on Mar 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Start at the base of a prominent pillar (not the huge pillar that's visible from the road, but farther left of that) at the base of the The Diamond about 200 feet right of the south edge of the face. Climb the pillar and onto the face, eventually encountering an alcove. Either belay here (it's another 200 feet to the next belay) or continue on to a loose ledge. The next pitch climbs a thinly protected face to another loose ledge for a belay. Continue up, linking the path of least resistance to the distinctive diagonal ledge that cuts up and left across the entire face. From here, either follow the ledge up and left off of the face or continue up to Left Over (5.9+).
For both, continue up another 50 feet until you encounter a cave. Pass the cave and continue basically straight up until you encounter a half-inch steel cable. Belay here. From this belay, traverse into a large, slightly overhanging dihedral and climb it. This is poorly protected right off the belay, but small cams and long slings shouldn't leave you too bad off. Top out on easy (4th class) slabs. Find the Medicine Bow Peak trail and walk off to the south.
The entire climb has route-finding issues, so be ready to down climb. Also, most of the cracks are very tiny (knife-blades would probably work best) so most of the climbing is very run out. Fortunately, there is protection at the hard parts, even on the harder variation.
For both, continue up another 50 feet until you encounter a cave. Pass the cave and continue basically straight up until you encounter a half-inch steel cable. Belay here. From this belay, traverse into a large, slightly overhanging dihedral and climb it. This is poorly protected right off the belay, but small cams and long slings shouldn't leave you too bad off. Top out on easy (4th class) slabs. Find the Medicine Bow Peak trail and walk off to the south.
The entire climb has route-finding issues, so be ready to down climb. Also, most of the cracks are very tiny (knife-blades would probably work best) so most of the climbing is very run out. Fortunately, there is protection at the hard parts, even on the harder variation.
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