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AZ's best hand and finger cracks

Original Post
Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131

I am wondering if any one has made a "best of" list specifically for hand and finger cracks in Arizona?
Obviously defining "best" is subjective, but IMO some of the qualities I'm looking for are (feel free to mention the qualities you think make a crack climb great):

a) Length of the crack (crack to face climbing ratio)
b) Total length of the climb
c) Protection quality
d) Overall rock quality (plenty of choss here in the desert)
e) Exposure

I'm only about a year into crack climbing and so I'd like to get an idea of peoples favorite climbs, and I'm looking for places to build/test my skillz. I know there are certain areas that are predominantly trad (Paradise Forks, West Clear Creek, Sedona, etc), but I'm curious to know what are the community favorites specifically for climbs that are awesome finger and hand cracks.

If this thread already exists I'd love to be pointed to it.

Kevin Kent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,526

Ultimate Finger Crack, Ultimates 5.11
Where the Wild Things Are, West Fork Oak Creek 12+
Hanging Judge, Winslow Wall 12-

When I think of best cracks in Arizona these are the 3 that come first to my mind.

The Northern AZ basalt has a lot of excellent ones for sure but it's tough to beat sandstone for shear length and splittery-ness.
Great places to hone the craft with hundreds of cracks are The Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, and Sedona.

If you're just getting into crack climbing you may find that a lot of the "best ofs" have hard grades, this is a product of what constitutes nice looking cracks. To me the best cracks aesthetically are long and splitter with no face holds. If they're dead vertical this almost always means handcracks start at 5.10 and fingercracks 5.11/12. If they overhang add a number grade.

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131

Thanks Kent! All three of those climbs look pretty incredible. Yeah I have noticed the hard grades on a lot of the classics (especially finger cracks, which is where I need to put in a lot of work). It gives me a lot of motivation to get out and improve so I can tackle some of them.

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 198

The best fingercrack in AZ is The Terminator at the Waterfall Wall. This is an undeniable fact.

Neil L · · Casper, wy · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1

To add some Southern Arizona flavor I would recommend Forest Lawn in Cochise: great fingers. Also there is a pretty good variety of grades in hands and fingers (with some face relief) at Chimney Rock on Mount Lemmon. I've heard Tombstone Crack is good in West Cochise is good, but haven't climbed it.

Chris Greevers · · San Tan Valley, az · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 105

These are all some of the best in the state. I'm fond of The Forks, and Waterfall. Climbing at these areas makes the transition to Indian Creek pretty easy.
As far as honing in skills on easier ground, I would suggest The Overlook. Lots of moderate
cracks with some good classics. Fun crag to train on before hitting the harder areas.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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