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Routes in North Face G1-16
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D. Brahm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Kaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kamasutra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mosoraski S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Velebitaski S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Kambic and Kilic 1957 |
| Page Views: | 11,048 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on May 13, 2010 · Updates |
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Description
If you climb much harder, there are better routes to do. Nevertheless, this is a CLASSIC! Probably the most climbed route on the face. It is rated 6a+ which translates to 5.10c. The crux pitch is a little polished from all the traffic, but didn't seem harder than 5.9. The first 7 pitches hover between 5.3 and 5.6. Pitches 6 and 7 should be linked, since 7 is super sort. This is plenty of warm up for the crux (pitch 8) which is a beautiful steep stemming corner. A pitch of 5.8 and one of 5.7 bring you to the top for spectacular views of the Adriatic! P1-4: Runout "5.4" climbing, with some route finding to find the bolts.P5: After the belay, go up, and then right around the corner. When you see a double bolt belay after approx 12m, don't go up the overhanging crack with all the bolts above it, but go right.P6-7: Link them, P7 is mostly a short (somewhat exposed) traverse to a corner.P8: Crux pitch (6a), Awkward crack/corner, but greatP9 -P10: FunGradingThe easy pitches are pretty sandbagged.GearBring a singles rack to place between the bolts.
Location
Hike to the base of Anica Kuk, shouldn't be too hard to find, it's the biggest thing in the park. Just right of center of the wall, is a left to right slab/ramp. Look for a giant carabiner! You'll know when you see it. This is the start of the route. There is some easy 3rd class to scramble up to ledges at the start.
To walk off the top, head up the ridge-line to the true summit and follow painted bulls-eyes down and around the NE and eventually back to the base. The route faces mostly North, and is in the shade all morning, It is a good way to avoid the heat of summer. If it is really hot, get off before the afternoon sun gets on it.
To walk off the top, head up the ridge-line to the true summit and follow painted bulls-eyes down and around the NE and eventually back to the base. The route faces mostly North, and is in the shade all morning, It is a good way to avoid the heat of summer. If it is really hot, get off before the afternoon sun gets on it.
Protection
The whole route is bolted. Sometimes the bolts are so far apart it makes route finding difficult. With that said, it might be best to bring a light rack. All anchors are bolted. There seemed to be a string of anchors up the face. Probably to facilitate rescues rather than a rap route. When I asked someone if you could rap the route they laughed and laughed. But it seemed like you could find your way down, probably with 2 ropes if you had to...
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