Northwest Ridge

A steep and exposed scramble on good rock with a Class 4 section at the start of the route, before leveling off near the summit, after which it's superb and exposed Class 3 along a ridgeline.

Has a reputation for being a classic route, with good exposure and rock to a very small summit.

Approach from camp at Hungry Packer Lake, follow the broad ridge north of the lake, first through small trees then rock steps and boulders, and Alpine terrain to a prominent notch on the high col north of the peak, at about 12,700 feet. The route is the broken ridge right of the shallow gully which runs almost to the summit. Near the start of the climb the approach snow can be fairly steep ice in late season of a good snow year.

I did not go the the notch but started the route lower down where the shallow gully met the snow - seemed like an easier start and cut short the slogging.

Without the snow it's a monstrous talus slog - so early season is recommended.

Descent is by way of the South/East slope at Class 3 into the basin south east of the peak, stay high so as to pass over the low point of the long broad East Ridge and back to your approach route.

Non required - heady solo. Or small diameter rope and a few nuts/slings. Crampons and Ice Axe seasonal.