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The Howling
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.2 from 111
votes
Routes in The Warlock
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Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Imaginary Voyage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Laeger, Laeger, & Jaffe - June, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 8,988 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The Howling is a great two-pitch climb up the NW shoulder of the Warlock and is probably the easiest passage to the summit.
P1: Begin by climbing one of two or three crack systems on the NW corner of the Warlock - right off the trail. These cracks generally go at 5.9-5.10. The left one is the most direct and original line, the middle one is the most aesthetic, and the righthand one (a chimney) is super easy but requires a traverse left to reach the belay. Belay at a cool ledge-like perch that gives good views to the south, but it may be better to move the belay around to the left and closer to the start of the second pitch.
P2: Climb up a leaning flake and sling the top for pro before committing to a move up onto the face/arete. Continue up the exposed arete via positive edges and gradually easier climbing, past an intermediate anchor (the anchor for Titanic) and on to the summit - a fantastic pitch protected by bolts.
Rap Down to the North (a single 70 will just barely reach).
P1: Begin by climbing one of two or three crack systems on the NW corner of the Warlock - right off the trail. These cracks generally go at 5.9-5.10. The left one is the most direct and original line, the middle one is the most aesthetic, and the righthand one (a chimney) is super easy but requires a traverse left to reach the belay. Belay at a cool ledge-like perch that gives good views to the south, but it may be better to move the belay around to the left and closer to the start of the second pitch.
P2: Climb up a leaning flake and sling the top for pro before committing to a move up onto the face/arete. Continue up the exposed arete via positive edges and gradually easier climbing, past an intermediate anchor (the anchor for Titanic) and on to the summit - a fantastic pitch protected by bolts.
Rap Down to the North (a single 70 will just barely reach).
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