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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Icicle Buttress…
> Icicle Buttress
The Ramp
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Icicle Buttress
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Andrew Said It Doesn’t Count V0 4 |
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Arch Enemy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bumper Belay S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Canadians On Horseback S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cocaine Connection S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cocaine Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good Gravy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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I Didn't Exhale S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R & D T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spaghetti Sauce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tober T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,709 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Jan 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
A worthwhile climb up the middle of Icicle Buttress. Maybe hard for a new 5.8 leader.
The 1st pitch goes up a wide blocky crack to a flaring but low angle hand crack to belay at the face of a steep wall above with a small tree or horizontal cracks under for a belay.
2nd pitch is a huge rightward traverse below the upper wall all the way out to the top, 5.8 lay back up on the last part. The Kramar guide calls the layback 5.8, but I did not find this, mostly low angle and not recommended. The first pitch is worth doing, just traverse left below or above the small tree belay to get onto last crack of R&D.
The 1st pitch goes up a wide blocky crack to a flaring but low angle hand crack to belay at the face of a steep wall above with a small tree or horizontal cracks under for a belay.
2nd pitch is a huge rightward traverse below the upper wall all the way out to the top, 5.8 lay back up on the last part. The Kramar guide calls the layback 5.8, but I did not find this, mostly low angle and not recommended. The first pitch is worth doing, just traverse left below or above the small tree belay to get onto last crack of R&D.
Location
Starts about mid way up the Buttress on a sloping bench that crosses all the way over to Cocaine crack. About 50' right of R&D. There are two cracks in sort of an inside corner, the left one is the 5.8. Cocaine connection would be a good approach pitch.Or even better approach keeping it all cracks would be the Arch , 5.8, and Forking crack, 5.9, and then wander across wet mossy slabs up and left.
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