Best bivys in the east?

i am a climber that loves to camp. I was just curious of people's favorite multi pitch climbs with exposed spots for a bivy. Would love to hear stories/routes with camp ledges to spend the night on.

I haven't spent the night on any East Coast climbs, but I'v heard of people doing it for fun on Whitney Gilman, Lunch Ledge on the Standard Route of Whitehorse, the GT ledge at High Exposure in the Gunks, and a crew even pulled a ledge up to sleep in on the Eaglet: mountainproject.com/v/10939… Not sure if backcountry camping is legal in any of those places though.

There are a few Grade V's on Cannon Cliff, such as the Lab Wall and VMC Direct, but those are pretty serious outings rather than just fun camping/climbing trips.

It's kind of slopeing but you could have a party on the triangle ledge of Upper Washbowl.

Greg Petliski wrote:I met a guy hiking who had climbed Wallface in the Adirondacks and bivied on one of the ledges. Maybe he's BS I have no idea, but seems plausible.

The best Bivy in the east is the first driveway on the right past the Keene sign if you're coming from Keene Valley :)

I was wondering if there would be enough room in the saddle at the base of the eaglet, at the top of pitch two.

There's an ice cave at the top of Easy Gully in Smuggler's Notch, VT during the winter months. It's a pretty easy climb, sometimes it's even skiable. It's a long hallway between rock and an ice curtain. It's not exposed, but that's a good thing up there in the winter.

Plenty of space - maybe not the most comfortable - to bivy before the last pitch of the Eaglet in the saddle.

You could also camp on the Parking Lot ledge at the Nose Area on Looking Glass. Lunch Ledge on Table Rock has nice sunrise views, both are in NC

The grassy ledge on FM @ Poke-O-Moonshine.

Slept on High E ledge once, it was fantastic!

Top of Mt. Adams, absolutely fantastic sunrise...not that I've ever done it, since it is illegal.

A few years back my gf (now wife) and I drove up to Cannon and climbed the first 5/6 pitches of Moby Grape. We hauled up a small stove and sleeping bags - Surprisingly the hauling with quite easy!

We had a late dinner and slept on a comfy grassy ledge before finishing the final pitch or 2 in the morning.

In addition to Cannon, there's some good options on Mt. Washington! You could get pretty comfy on a few spots along Henderson Ridge.

Thanks everyone for the insight, and thanks mark NH I think I'm going to try to bivy the eaglet the last weekend in sept. Moby grape is on the list too. Would love to check out that white ledge hotel sometime, but so much good climbing in the northeast to tackle first. That white ledge traverse is on the bucket list.

I believe you mean Whiteside's hotel. Not white ledge. And Sam. Jeez, you can't be giving away the best spots.

Yes whiteside, oops

There is a big grassy ledge up and to the right of the last pitch ledge on the eaglet, I'd bivy there if you don't have a portaledge. Sleeping in the saddle wolud suck and its where any loose rock would land.

Ed,

The saddle you mention is actually what I was referencing in my post - where you'd belay the last pitch from. It's huge - and as many times as I've climbed it - just don't remember it being really flat but certainly able to bivy!

I'd certainly never bivy lower! There is some loose rock!

Mark

Thanks Ed! I think that's where I'll try to bivy, thanks for the input

The saddle isn't what I'm talking about. There is that grassy ledge below the "half moon" crack I think its the last pitch of peregrine aret. I'd sleep there rather than haul a ledge up again.