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Building a climbing camper (Pictures)

Original Post
Eli Peterson · · Orem · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 290

Hello, I have decided that paying rent and living in an apartment is not for me. I am planning on moving into my truck full time in a couple of months once I build my "home". I have decided not to go with a tradational camper because of the weight issue. By building my own I can keep down on the weight, only have what I need, and make use of a perfectly good truck shell. It's been raining this morning over here in the Wasatch Range in Utah so I decided to make some designs this morning.

I have a 2003 ford f150 extended cab running on cng (Similar to picture) May or may not add a leaf to the suspension or add extra springs depending on estimated weight
Please give me your input, ideas and suggestions.









Of course the "house" wont be missing walls or a door like in the pictures, I removed some things for visibility.

Suggestions, opinions and critiques are very welcome!

Scot Hastings · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

I love it! I'd imagine you have some choices to make in terms of wood, treatments, durability, etc., but I assume you're all over that.

My girlfriend and I spent a year on the road in a quad cab Ram with a Four Wheel Camper Hawk on it. Based on that experience, I can confirm that you are dead on that storage will be the biggest challenge. While the FWC probably has slightly less storage than you design, we had a bigger cab (quad vs extended), and a large Thule roof box, so it's probably about a wash. Things changed in our lives such that the truck camper will only make short trips for the foreseeable future. Prior to that, though, I was thinking about ways to add storage.

Here are a couple thoughts:

1. The truck bed (and specifically the sides of the bed) are a huge waste of space. Depending on your structure, you should just need a solid surface to mount it to, which could easily be steel crossbars welded directly onto the frame after you remove the bed itself. Once you do that, you can fill the space that the bed sides used to occupy with additional storage. I was thinking flatbed-style aluminum storage boxes, custom-sized for skis, trad gear, an air compressor, firewood, and some other goodies. That's expensive, though. In the spirit of your current design, you could do the same thing out of wood. Personally, I think having the storage open to the outside is a huge bonus as you can put the really dirty/smelly/whatever stuff out there and not have to drag it into your living space.

2. In addition, you might want to consider elevating the living space with a platform that allows storage under the floor. This would be great for skis/snowboards and other long, skinny stuff.

3. If you haven't already, remove the back seats of the truck. Purpose-built storage can go a long way towards making use of that space.

4. If you're planning on being in cold climates, make sure you build in some insulation to help manage condensation. I'm guessing that will drastically lengthen the life of the wood paneling.

Good luck!

-Scot

Eli Peterson · · Orem · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 290

I really like that Idea of taking off the bed of the truck. However the issue would be finding somewhere to store it while I traveled (Same as back seats). I have thought about making a floor but I need to do some more research on registration and classifications. From the little research I have done It seems as if when there is no floor it is not a camper/mobilehome so there is no need to register anything besides the truck. I think I will just cut carpet to fit the bed of truck to use as the floor, that way to clean it I can just pull it out and bang it.

Thanks for replying! I am sadly getting ready to sell a lot of stuff and gear so I can fit it all in.

RickG Gutz · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 35

OK...here goes nothing. I've spent a lot of time working on space considerations in layouts, so take this for whatever its worth.

As was said before, you could simply raise your current structure 4-5 inches. That would allow you to put in slider boxes underneath (maybe two or even three). If you put a top to one, you can then even use it as an outdoor table once you put a leg or two on the corners (let me know if this isn't making sense - it's a bit late for me). You can then easily fit very long thin items inside these slider boxes like ski and boards and would probably be perfect for all your climbing gear (you slide out the box and can see all your things at once). The material you make the box out of will be important for weight - maybe aluminum it it fits in the cost and some bracing to give it rigidity. Might affect the overall center of gravity so how you connect to the truck bed will be important.

I would not leave it open under the bed as you have it now. I would definitely put a wall there so that you can keep all your stuff inside. It actually will increase your storage because you are now using it vertically as well. Open through the top on a hinge to the bed, or at the truck bed end. Hinge would be my preference. Wouldn't have to get out in a rain to access it.

You can also add a shelving unit above the bed, you don't really need much vertical space while yo are sleeping and if space is more important you can gain some valuable real estate that way (think bunk beds but not a bed above). The navy had beds about 20 inches apart and they managed!

A little wash basin or sink wouldn't be a bad idea. I think you'll be glad you did add it. You can easily get a hard top to fit on top of it so you can still have a flat surface (see boat sinks or RV's).

You can also mount a box or two on the back door left side if you need to. Even a 10" box will be huge when you need the space.

Sounds like a fun project. Have fun!

Eli Peterson · · Orem · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 290

Thanks a lot Rick! I really like that idea of pulling out under the floor draws to make an outdoor table. I will most likely try and add that to the plan. I was trying to figure out a way to make a board flip or slide outside so I could put my stove on it and cook outside when I could and I think this could be the best way. I prefer having space over my bed becuase I will be living out of it (need room to sit and read and do homework on rainy days). I am trying to keep everything made out of wood for I have never worked with metal for building things (maybe it's time to learn). I was planning on bungie cording the area under the bed for now, but yes wood flaps would be much better. For a sink I think I'll keep it simple and have a plastic tub under my water, don't want to deal with hoses and plumbing/dumping.

Thanks for your input and ideas!

RickG Gutz · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 35

Very cool. Obviously you've put a lot of thought in this project.

Don't be intimidated with working with metal. Everything I see in your plans is pretty straightforward stuff. Cutting and drilling. In this case metal is exactly the same, except that you need different blades and drill bits. That is all. And the savings in weight and strength are worth the additional effort - anyway you will also learn a new skill!

For example, I would build the entire box in metal studs used for framing. It does take a little to learn, but really easy to use tap screws to connect them, and cutters to size. Probably a YouTube video that shows you the basics. But the gain in weight savings is well worth it. I would even consider metal siding for the sides and top, then insulate them. Way lighter than wood and much more durable to weather. Again, in most instances just tap screws and some poly glue to seal. Real basic stuff.

Running wires can be the most complex aspect, but most metal studs already have holes in them for pass through.

Anyway, worth a look.

PS also, make sure to go 16" on center for all your studs. You will definitely need the additonal sheer strength that all the bouncing around that the cab will be doing...otherwise you have a box that will fall apart in short time. Check out YouTube videos on companies that rebuild old trailers to get an idea of how they frame them.

Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Looks pretty good! People are going to think you are very weird doing repeater workouts on that hangboard in some parking lot however. Factor in you're driving a f150 with the elevated shell and you're going to get some horrendous gas mileage too.

Those are the only two downsides I see!
Please post finished product pictures, I'm sure we'd all like to see them!

Cayuse · · Spokane · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 20

Licensing is different state to state. In Washington it doesn't have to be licensed if it is less than I think 60" above the bed of the truck so my FWC camper gets a pass but something like you're building would probably require a plate, just something to keep in mind.

Rob Culbertson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 55

Eli - I'm in Denver and have built exactly what you are looking at - but on a Toyota Tacoma xtra-cab. I used metal (purchased 600lbs aluminum & steel) instead of wood as I have a welder & metal tools. I'd built a previous one using metal studs as suggested and covered it with transparent (extremely light fiberglass) greenhouse material. I could lift the entire thing by myself and it was a cabover.
use a pop rivet gun for assembling metal studs. We used 1" styrofoam building insulation between the studs for insulation & privacy

Fold out your tailgate and build the box right to the end of the open gate. you gain 16" - 18" in length this way.
My box sits up on the top of the bed sides and is attached by four 3/8" bolts,. holes drilled through the truck.
No floor - just a nice piece of carpet. For winter though I'd suggest covering the floor with 1/2" stiff rubber foam available @ home depot/lowes/etc and comes in 24" squares with interlocking edges. This goes under the carpet.
Ours rises 32" above the top of the cab and we have a huge bed up there. to make the bed (wider or longer depending on which direction you sleep) where the over-cab portion meets the big box, there's an 18" wide folding shelf that comes down at night, then flips back up during normal "business hours".
We also have a solar hot water panel on the roof which heats our 10 gal fresh water storage tank - all powered by a 12V RV water pump running on 12Vs solar PV panels on the roof. Theres a small sink, three burner propane cook stove, exhaust hood (plus 2 CO detectors), an ice box, full shower & porta potty, fold down dining table & chairs, etc,etc,etc. Lastly - WINDOWS! Ours had only two to start but have added two more (use 1/4" Lexan)It's very comfortable for two of us.
I have lots of photos of it's construction and interior but don't know how to post them here. probably could e-mail you some separately?

Eli Peterson · · Orem · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 290

Thanks for sharing Rob, I would be very interested in seeing pictures. I would love it if you could email me some at elipetersonjp@gmail.com if you get the time.

John Dee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I must say this is a very detailed plan. Have you managed to finish the camper? Would be great if you can share some tips on where you bought the truck parts and stuff you needed to build it. I'm interested in building a camper too. You might want to check out this reference http://www.leeroysramblings.com/pickup_camper.htm

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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