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Canada - sport destinations for a long weekend trip?

Original Post
Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

I keep hearing about all the great rock up in Canada, but most of it seems to be on the west coast which means a pricey flight. Are there any good sport destinations across the border that could be done as a long weekend driving from Boston? We'll climb anything up to mid 5.12 if it's a quality time.

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Mt. Orford is super fun.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Kamarouska near the Gulf of St. Lawrence. "The poor man's Wild Iris."

enkoopa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

How many hours are you willing to drive?

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

Just Sport?

Sport:
Orford 3h30, lots of hard routes, not much of it listed on MP
Kamouraska 7h00, Too far! soft grades, limestone like climbing with stellare views.
Val-David 5h30 drive, Classic area in QC, tons to do and visit
Baldy 5h30, Hard hard sport routes
Tranchant 6h00, lots o sport

I can hook you up with clubs and people if you want.

Trad:
Mont-Pinacle 3h45, Alpine cliff, tons more than on MP
Lac Long 6h00 drive, Tons and tons of high quality routes
Grands-Jardins 7h00 drive, too far for a long weekend but plan a trip there one day

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

Kamouraska - entails camping near the cliff (have to pay to climb and to camp)
Orford - I'm not too sure for accommodations in the area, I can ask around if you want.
Val-David - (nearby to a few other sport areas including Baldy, Boisseau and Weir), lots of motels, a couple campgrounds, pay to climb.
Tranchant - I think there's a motel in St-Comes nearby and there are other cliffs nearby too (Castor is mostly sport) again, need to get a day pass from the FQME website for liability insurance reasons...

Catherine Rioux · · Toronto, ON · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 35

Orford is great and right next to where I live, but it is currently closed because of falcon nesting. It will reopen in early August, or as soon as the baby falcons are gone.

Catherine Rioux · · Toronto, ON · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 35

I would also recommend Baldy, in the Laurentians. It's a small area, but it has some very high quality 5.12.
The routes there require it all: technique, strenght, endurance.
It is definetely one of my favourite walls in Quebec.

Here's a brand new topo:
paroislaurentiennes.weebly.…

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

Thanks everyone, great info!

enkoopa wrote:How many hours are you willing to drive?
I was thinking something like a 4-5 day trip at most, so 2 days for travel but I'd rather not drive more than about 8 hours/day.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

Well, for variety I would suggest setting up camp in the Laurentides, there's a lot of cliffs with various types of rock.

These areas have a lot of sport routes:
Central:
Val-David
- Les Fesses
- La Bleue
- Condor/l'aiguille
Baldy
Piedmont

further north:
Julien Labedan
Cap des peres
Lac Boisseau
Montagne d'Argent (kind of a zoo with soft ratings)
Nixon

West:
Weir (real oven in the summer though)

East (Lanaudiere):
Montagne du Tranchant
Lac du Castor

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

We're looking at October for a ~5 day trip. Is that going to work out with temperatures and weather? (I'm on work trip + family vacation all of September)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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