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Upper West View / Sunset Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Upper West View / Sunset Wall
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General Hong's Army TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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InoYormos TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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La Cucharita TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mr. Hutt's TP TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Torque Around TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torqued Off T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 1,185 ft |
| GPS: |
39.26262, -77.39473 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 9,383 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | James Elric on Jul 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Description
Secluded but exposed and scenic. A gorgeous wall where a single anchor can offer a diverse range of top-roping: 5.5 to at least 5.10d. A second anchor set up serves a very hard 11+ route and a technical 5.7.
Falls tend to have a bit of swing but they are very safe and clean. Never seen any sketchy falls whatsoever. Just be safe and make good decisions with rope positions on roofs and small traverses.
This is an ideal place to give beginners a great experience with enough technical fun to entertain an experienced climber for a bit. Offers a incredible view for sunsets after topping out and cleaning up. The park closes at dark so don't linger too much at dusk.
I do my best to honor the oldest or most established naming convention I come across. But most mentions of this spot are vague and documentation is scarce. To my knowledge this is not covered in any published guidebook and in ten years of frequent visits I've never seen any other climbers or chalk marks. Spread the word and please help build this page!
DISAMBIGUATION: I refer to the wall as both "Upper West View" and "Sunset Wall". "Upper West view" is to my knowledge the older name used by climbers, but in my experience here many locals (climber and hiker) tend to use "sunset" as the key word for identifying the area.
Falls tend to have a bit of swing but they are very safe and clean. Never seen any sketchy falls whatsoever. Just be safe and make good decisions with rope positions on roofs and small traverses.
This is an ideal place to give beginners a great experience with enough technical fun to entertain an experienced climber for a bit. Offers a incredible view for sunsets after topping out and cleaning up. The park closes at dark so don't linger too much at dusk.
I do my best to honor the oldest or most established naming convention I come across. But most mentions of this spot are vague and documentation is scarce. To my knowledge this is not covered in any published guidebook and in ten years of frequent visits I've never seen any other climbers or chalk marks. Spread the word and please help build this page!
DISAMBIGUATION: I refer to the wall as both "Upper West View" and "Sunset Wall". "Upper West view" is to my knowledge the older name used by climbers, but in my experience here many locals (climber and hiker) tend to use "sunset" as the key word for identifying the area.
Getting There
Park at the far side of the west view parking lot. The easiest way is to take green trail (stone steps) all the way up and rappel down from the anchor point. The belay spot approximate gps coordinates are 39.262620,-77.394729. The anchor point is all the way on top of the mountain on the west side ledge. I will post photos to assist with finding it. It is sadly but conveniently tagged with light blue spray paint
If you do not want to repel head north and there is a scrambly path down. It can also be reached by heading EAST from the parking lot. The belay spot is approximately half way up the north west face of the mountain. The anchor point can be reached with careful scrambling up the less steep parts of the mountain. Easiest non-official path is about 50 yards north of the belay point.
If you do not want to repel head north and there is a scrambly path down. It can also be reached by heading EAST from the parking lot. The belay spot is approximately half way up the north west face of the mountain. The anchor point can be reached with careful scrambling up the less steep parts of the mountain. Easiest non-official path is about 50 yards north of the belay point.
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper West View / Sunset Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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