Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Equipped by: ? FFA: Mark Anderson, June 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,242 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on May 15, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a classic jughaul in the vein of Sprayathon - steep and overhanging virtually the entire way - but with a more distinct crux at 1/3-height. The first body-length roof is skirted to the left, and the second is not as difficult as it appears thanks to some clever jamming opportunities. However, getting established on the headwall immediately above may cause some trouble.
Begin from the far end of the upper-right fixed line. Work up and left up the slab, careful to skirt the X-marked death block. As the wall steepens, jugs appear where you need them, leading up and left around the first roof. Cop a quick shake at a decent stance below the intimidating ceiling. Foot trickery and trad skills will get you to the lip. Crank strenuously up a set of bottoming pods in the big, left-facing offset until itÂ’s possible to throw a foot onto the steep slab. After a well-earned shake, crank through the pegmatite on solid-albeit-flakey jugs to reach the Gunks-like quartzite above. Race the building pump up the unbroken chain of amazing jugs, heel-hooking, toe-camming, and kneebaring along the way to reach the lip of the cave.
Begin from the far end of the upper-right fixed line. Work up and left up the slab, careful to skirt the X-marked death block. As the wall steepens, jugs appear where you need them, leading up and left around the first roof. Cop a quick shake at a decent stance below the intimidating ceiling. Foot trickery and trad skills will get you to the lip. Crank strenuously up a set of bottoming pods in the big, left-facing offset until itÂ’s possible to throw a foot onto the steep slab. After a well-earned shake, crank through the pegmatite on solid-albeit-flakey jugs to reach the Gunks-like quartzite above. Race the building pump up the unbroken chain of amazing jugs, heel-hooking, toe-camming, and kneebaring along the way to reach the lip of the cave.
Location
Full Metal Jacket is just right of the center of the cave, beginning from the far right end of the upper-right fixed line. The start of the route is shared with 14:59. These routes can be belayed from the stance just below The Bottleneck from a semi-hanging belay from a 1-bolt anchor (which can be backed up with finger-sized cams) at the end of the upper-right fixed line or from a nice flat stance at the far right end of the lower-right fixed line. The latter is probably the most comfortable for all parties. It has also been done from a belay on the Dirt Ledge, but this is not recommended.
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