Mountain Project Logo

Pushing ones limit too early...

Original Post
Thomasrun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

So I've been climbing for about a month and a half. First Boulder problem I did was a v2 and I haven't looked back. I love bouldering and I do it about 3-4 times a week. Right now I'll say I'm a v2-v3 climber, but they seem too easy at times, v4's and v5's takes me a couple tries here and there and after some beta from others. And I'm actually close to some v6's. I do a lot of over hangs which I like. My question is am I pushing myself too early, just the fear of injury is on my mind and warnings from other experienced climbers. I'm just a competitive person by nature and when I fine something I like I just want to be the best or rather put all I have into it.

Also side note I'm climbing in some stonelands 5.10, not that they aren't great but after a long session, my heel slips out here and there on hard heel hooks. My feel get sweaty in them and there goes my heel. Is it too early to get aggressive shoes? I think I got them to big because they say first pair should be comfortable. Anyhow any advice will be great!

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Well, the answers depend on your age and objectives. They key through all of it, though, is to listen to your body.

You get better by pushing your limit, but you have to do so without pushing THE limit at which things break.

To get better this early on, your focus needs to be on technique acquisition and understanding how your body works during climbing moves. This means actual practice of things like flagging, step-throughs, OPEN HANDED grips (don't crimp!), back steps, drop knees, and the like.

I didn't understand the importance of a proper warmup until I started pushing my limits on ropes. Do the warmup! Your body will thank you by not feeling like crap 10 years down the road.

And stretch after any climbing workout.

P.S. it sounds like your shoes are too big. I climb overhangs in 5.10 Anasazi velcros and they're not considered an "aggressive" shoe. But I'm also not climbing V6, so, take that with a grain of salt.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Charlie, you nailed it. Warmups before, stretching afterward.

Thomasrun, it matters more if you're older (like over 18), but your muscles will strengthen a helluva lot faster than your tendons. That means your tendons can blow out because they'll be overstressed by your tendons as you try to hang onto thinner and thinner holds. That risk is borne by fingers most of all, but also elbows, wrists and shoulders. So bring them along slowly.

A former student of mine repeatedly damaged tendons in all those joints when he was 16 and 17. He was insanely strong, but didn't comprehend "quit." He has learned, however, and has continued to climb at a very high level.

Twelve years later (last year), he was enroute to an onsight of a V13 when a hold broke.

If you really want to see some scary things, get your hands on the book "One Move Too Many." Graphic ain't the half of it...

Lastly, do invest in shoes that fit a little better. There's a lot of room (pun intended) between too big and agonizingly tight. A fit like a coat of paint will do wonders. And then polish your footwork: it'll support your upper-body joints while making you a better climber all around. You can't lose!

Make haste slowly, as your great-grands would say. And don't forget to have fun.

Thomasrun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the advice yall, will definitely start stretching after climbing. My climbing sessions have been better when I warm up, so I will keep at that. As for techniques, I've been looking into doing some drills to improve. I'm not trying to be a competitive climber or anything, especially at my age (27..) but I have goals set that I want to meet as a climber. Also I feel really strong at this moment in my life.

I've decided to invest in some miura vs or solution, against my lack of experience for judgement. I know having aggressive downturn shoes will not make be a better climber but I'm giving this my full focus so I figured I might as well invest in some good shoes. Plus its a confidence booster haha.

Again thanks for the encouragement and advice!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
Post a Reply to "Pushing ones limit too early..."

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started