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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Main Wall
Eeyore's Enigma
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 32
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Absolutely Billy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Batman's Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deadpool T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eeyore's Ecstacy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Travelin' Man T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yankee Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973 |
| Page Views: | 15,175 total · 69/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Mar 15, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Its name gives good indication of what to expect.
The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.
The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.
The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.
Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.
The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.
Really wide and kinda scary.
The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.
The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.
The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.
Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.
The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.
Really wide and kinda scary.
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