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Chasing Dragons
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 103
votes
Routes in North End
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16 Weeks S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Above The Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Hombres S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Be Yourself S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chasing Dragons S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Debra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Field Holler T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Gospel T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hobo Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ledgeway to Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lion's Bait S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Little Jugger Left S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Jugger Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mantle Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Metro Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Off Shore Drilling S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Off the Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Our Daily Bread T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Recovery, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sawed Off Shovel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trust the Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Unknown- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wing Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick 2010 |
| Page Views: | 6,672 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Closure
Details
Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods which typically start April 1st and last through early August. All routes south of Shaman School (Climber's left) will be closed to climbing. Please refer to USFS signage at the crag for the most current closure information. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of full areas, and we ask that climbers respect this privilege by adhering to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
One of the more common uses of the phrase “chase the dragon“, eludes to the pursuit of an ever elusive, ultimate high. For most, this overhanging arête will leave you with an altered state of mind and if successful, a renewed love of the chase.
This line climbs the sweeping, angular prow two routes left of New River though it shares the initial start with Metro Line and New River. Climb a rampy weakness past three bolts, then start moving left to a good shake at the base of the steep arête, staying below the ledge. A few big pulls between perfect jugs sets you up for a series of boulder problems that incorporates both sides of the arête. A redpoint crux at the roof and clipping the anchors is a final whipping of the dragon's tail! Perhaps a hard onsight for the grade, especially if you time it wrong and get caught staring into the sun.
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