Thesis: it is unethical to climb on ANY wet rock

You're right man. It's totally bomber, even when wet.
I was wrong.

BDergay wrote:

I've accumulated (imho) a significant list of onsite free-solos

I'm glad they were onsite free solos. Red point free solos are a bitch. Especially the second attempt.

Haha- good point.

Greg D wrote:BDergay wrote: I've accumulated (imho) a significant list of onsite free-solos I'm glad they were onsite free solos. Red point free solos are a bitch. Especially the second attempt.

Actually, I'd be wiling to bet that most free solos are in fact redpoints, i.e. the climber has been on the route before he/she soloed it.

Pnelson wrote: Actually, I'd be wiling to bet that most free solos are in fact redpoints, i.e. the climber has been on the route before he/she soloed it.

Well, I'd agree if we were talking in about the US in general, but I doubt it if we're talking flatirons. I'd say at least 20% of climbers doing east faces solo. I have soloed the vast majority of the flatiron climbs I have done (probably close to 100), and have only roped up for 3 east face routes. I do not think that is particularly uncommon. The east faces are ideal solo's, low angle, often a walk off, and the runout nature of the rock makes taking ropes less useful anyway.

bdboulder wrote: But joking aside, from your last post Mark: "I haven't seen many that agreed with you" is immediately followed by "but your probably right that a little extra care is called for". So while you say that few agree with me, apparently you're one of them. Thank you.

Bob, I was just being nice since a friend told me you were OK. Nobody agrees with you. I don't agree with you.

Your name calling and persistent mischaracterization of my advice to a visiting climber makes me wonder how well my friend knows you. Maybe you are just caught up in the internet debate thing and not like this in real life.

Wow. This went full nuke. No big surprise I guess.
Some of you argued very valid points. Now thousands of neophytes will be armed with science and chemistry to defend themselves. I just would like to advocate some caution, and some judgement- which isn't easily or quickly obtained. Yes, granite is hard. But little flakes are more likely to break off if there is moisture behind 'em. This goes for every kind of rock I've seen, even well known routes over twenty years old. You can do whatever you want. Maybe consider who might be reading this thread though?

Saw a link to this in another thread. Seems like a thread with more actual info regarding wet sandstone than this one. mountainproject.com/v/wet-s…