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Routes in R. The Widow's Tears Area
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Lurch, The T |
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Riding on the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Silver Strand WI5 |
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Widow's Tears WI5 |
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Windchill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windfall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windjammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Jensen/Jake Whittaker |
| Page Views: | 4,672 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Apr 17, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Over the summer of 2014, Jake Whittaker and I put up a new free route approximately 100 yards left of Widows Tears amphitheater. We called the climb The Lurch (7 pitches, 5.12c/d), after one of the last moves on the routeby far the crux.
The Lurch follows an obscure, unknown aid line that may be from the 90s, judging by the bolts at some anchors. Our line veers from the aid route in a few places to allow for free climbing and/or avoiding death. For example, a leftward traverse on the fourth pitch avoids monstrous and very precariously stacked, Volkswagen-size chunks of granite.
This route is characterized by quality stone, quality climbing, and relative safety. Its a great route to throw oneself at if pushing the grade. And if you dont climb 12+, this might be a good one to see where youre atyou can really go for it at the cruxes. The seven pitches go at 10+, 11a/b, 12b, 11c/d, 10c, 12a, and 12c/d, and some are short for ease of belays and diminishing rope drag on the hard sections. Overall, the route is PG, but the cruxes are as G as G can be.
At the top of this no-summit, silly little route tucked into an obscure corner of the Ditch, climbers will be rewarded with a secluded, stunningly gorgeous perch where they can sit in peace, breathe, and take in the overall contentment that only accompanies climbing routes longer than a few pitches.
Thank you Jake Whittaker, for this fun filled time. You taught me so much on this one.
Here is a beta video on the crux. youtube.com/watch?v=OhCkzXp…
The Lurch follows an obscure, unknown aid line that may be from the 90s, judging by the bolts at some anchors. Our line veers from the aid route in a few places to allow for free climbing and/or avoiding death. For example, a leftward traverse on the fourth pitch avoids monstrous and very precariously stacked, Volkswagen-size chunks of granite.
This route is characterized by quality stone, quality climbing, and relative safety. Its a great route to throw oneself at if pushing the grade. And if you dont climb 12+, this might be a good one to see where youre atyou can really go for it at the cruxes. The seven pitches go at 10+, 11a/b, 12b, 11c/d, 10c, 12a, and 12c/d, and some are short for ease of belays and diminishing rope drag on the hard sections. Overall, the route is PG, but the cruxes are as G as G can be.
At the top of this no-summit, silly little route tucked into an obscure corner of the Ditch, climbers will be rewarded with a secluded, stunningly gorgeous perch where they can sit in peace, breathe, and take in the overall contentment that only accompanies climbing routes longer than a few pitches.
Thank you Jake Whittaker, for this fun filled time. You taught me so much on this one.
Here is a beta video on the crux. youtube.com/watch?v=OhCkzXp…
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