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Rock Climbing Photo: Wow.  Anchor bolts for the 5.10b TR. Might as well...
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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 14, 2015
Bomber! Were these found in a ship wreck?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 14, 2015
Wow.. rust on top of rust.
By Tavis
From: ca
Apr 22, 2015
This is why coastal sites should use one piece glue-ins and high grade stainless steel. Not sure what the quick links are made of but at least the hangars look like high grade stainless.
By Geoff Barton
Apr 22, 2015
Next time somebody goes there, bring some bolt cutters and SS quick links. Easy fix if somebody takes the time. I think I'll throw some of that in my pack in case I ever run into this scenario.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Apr 22, 2015
Dizzy Dial was named by Tim Wilhelmi who got he FA; Richard Ludwig and I were there to belay as he worked the route/decided on bolt locations/and drilled.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 23, 2015
Geoff, The whole anchor needs to be ripped out, not just the quicklinks replaced. From the picture, even the rock looks bad, full of cracks. Just replacing the links would encourage people into believing that the rest of the anchor is good.
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 23, 2015
A few things:

Patrick's Point does not allow bolting, even to replace existing poor bolts. Which is absolutely foolish. Rangers have chopped bolts that are within reach on several old routes and even some TR anchors I know of, then left the ones in the middle of routes that they can't reach on foot. It is all ironic since they did a terrible job at chopping all those bolts, leaving exposed metal that leaks rust onto the rock.

These bolts are pretty much unnecessary, I rapped and top roped from a tree 40' back (which is the only way to even access these bolts). These bolts would only be of any use if there were lead bolts under them, which would be nice!


Matthias, This is on the 5.10 route 100' right of Dizzy Dial. Same bolts though. But on that topic, who decided the bolt placement wayyy out right after the roof? Were they trying to make another route or something? Most people now skip the bolt and place a nut in the crack.
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Wow.
Anchor bolts for the 5.10b TR. Might as well skip the bolts and use your tree anchor for the belay.

I also noticed these are the same bolts, hangers, and rusted quick links as on the wall 100' NE of Dizzy Dial. Does anyone know who did these FAs?

Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 13, 2015
On this route:
5.10b Toprope (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b )
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