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Who is the most technically sound rock climber of all time?

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

Lynne Hill was first that came to mind. But most everyone listed here remakable.

That video of her upthread is great. I think it's the only bouldering video I have watched in entirety.

Alan Ream · · Lafayette CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,405

Dan Osman soloing Atlantis - artistic and inspired!

cs.colorado.edu/~jrblack/pi…

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Johnny Dawes

I'll try to link some videos if I get a chance

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

While I think of Tommy immediately I have to go with Honnold.....dude makes soloing 5.13 look like a walk in the park, now that's hard to do.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
EricF wrote:Fritz Wiessner
+1
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

These lists always tend to be very 'Merican-centric, so I'll throw in some diversity with Alex Huber, Yuji, and Arnaud Petit.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Jake Jones wrote:That's cuz the m'jerity of us "R" 'merican.
this is why Ondra will NEVAR be better than Sharma!
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Sven Lavransen

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I think Caldwell and Hill are stronger candidates than Ondra. They are for more techinically well rounded. I don't know that Ondra could climb in OW, but Caldwell and Hill can. They perform beautifully across the spectrum of rock styles.

Said Parirokh · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 685
Bill M wrote:"Climber" is pretty broad. I think you need to narrow down your definition some for a useful answer. Just out of curiosity, what would you do with the answer if you had it?
I suppose I'm more interested in pure rock climbing. Bouldering / Sport / Trad and less interested in Ice / Aid / Mountaineering..

I plan on watching lots of videos of and taking away pieces of technique I can work on in my daily practice. Plus it's fun to discuss such a topic and to see how the community thinks about technique. It's not something that often comes up, and the only time you really talk about it is while working a project with a like minded climber analyzing and dissecting it move by move.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Said wrote: I suppose I'm more interested in pure rock climbing. Bouldering / Sport / Trad and less interested in Ice / Aid / Mountaineering.. I plan on watching lots of videos of and taking away pieces of technique I can work on in my daily practice. Plus it's fun to discuss such a topic and to see how the community thinks about technique. It's not something that often comes up, and the only time you really talk about it is while working a project with a like minded climber analyzing and dissecting it move by move.
theres 2 climbers who i feel one can learn something simply by watching em climb

ondra on real rock ... especially on his earlier climbing when he was "weaker" physically ... his technique is exceptional, which is why he is considered the best sport climber today

kim jain on plastic ... even her fellow competitors call her the "best" climber to watch at IFSC competitions ... shes absolutely smooth and fluid ... theres a reason why she was last years overall champion on sport and why she has consistently placed in the top bracket the last few years

;)
Keith Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

Henry Barber!

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
bearbreeder wrote: ondra on real rock ... especially on his earlier climbing when he was "weaker" physically ...
Technique is just an efficient application of strength/power, which could be finger strength, foot strength or big muscle strength. Beyond that, there is also flexibility which enables certain position, movement. I doubt Ondra is less technical now than a few years ago, it's just that he has gained more big muscle strength, but there is just as much or more technique involved in utilizing those larger muscles.
Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277

I'd nominate Bernd Arnold in his prime. The towers around the Elbe are quite technical with thin face and all variety of cracks and extremely run out.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

John Gill, anybody?

Ian Buckley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 10
flynn wrote:John Gill, anybody?
John Gill is a strong suggestion, I remember looking at photo's of him in the 80's that were already 20 years old and failing miserably to copy his moves.

But I've got to give it to Johnny Dawes, dicking about with parkour style moves on rock and unbelievably bold

(NOT 5.11d!! And where's the Frank Zappa from the original film)
youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zc…

youtube.com/watch?v=NfhZFGQ…
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

Thanks for posting up the Johnny Dawes vids - never seen or heard of him before. A couple of us from SoIll had an affinity for no-hands moves/lines, but nothing quite on that order.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
reboot wrote: Technique is just an efficient application of strength/power, which could be finger strength, foot strength or big muscle strength. Beyond that, there is also flexibility which enables certain position, movement. I doubt Ondra is less technical now than a few years ago, it's just that he has gained more big muscle strength, but there is just as much or more technique involved in utilizing those larger muscles.
i agree hes not any "less sound" ... however the moves he makes on some recent climbs is simply sick ... its not bad technique, but simply most of us MP mortals could never make that kind of move

the stuff from a few years ago he didnt have the power he has today ... but his footwork is beautiful in those vids

one note is that ANY climber can be exceptionally "technically sound" at a certain level ... hell im probably the most fluid 5.7 climber out there !!!

the trick is in finding folks who are exceptionally composed at their physical limits ... ondra and kim jain

or when a mistake means death ... honnold

;)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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