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Rock Climbing Photo: Highly detailed beta for both movement and protect...
Id# 110258284, 1159 x 1500px View full size
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Apr 12, 2015
Nice - I don't think the mantle is 11a.
By dnaiscool
Apr 12, 2015
Second that Chris...unless you do not find the sweet little crimpers that enable the stand, and if you have not been doing your Yoga.

The mantle rail itself is deeply incut, so latching it and turning the elbow is not to difficult, but the steep wall you end up against presents the crux of the move...and...

your last pro is away, to the right and a swinging fall dropping down into that dihedral below weighs heavy.

Once you've unlocked the key crimpers, you are OK...but if you miss these on your first attempt, well...tough move.

Mark Bowling was guiding a client up the WMWA, and he was watching me when I arrived at the mantle. There was a single strand of black super-tape with a big knot on the end dangling from a belay bolt. I turned the mantle, did some weak searching for a way to stand, looked at the nasty fall and thought about the 25 screws I had in my heel bones from a previous accident, and ...I ...pulled that sling. Mark did not let THAT one go, so he hollered over to me, "Pussy!!" It was playful banter, Mark and I are friends; however, I promised myself that I'd never do that move with aid again, so as I brought up my second, I searched the place for "The Way." And that is when I discovered the key crimper for the right hand. A year later I found myself in the same position, but this time two things were different: There was no sling, and I knew where to pull, so I stood up no problem.
By pkeds
From: Redondo Beach, CA
Jun 8, 2015
rnaiscooler
Photo 19 of 33
Avg Score   3.0 from 2 votes
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Highly detailed beta for both movement and protection on the "Bat Crack".

Submitted By: dnaiscool on Mar 29, 2015
On this route:
The Vampire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c )
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