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Rock Climbing Photo: Thi-Ly Hayes  getting set to do the cruxy traverse...
Id# 110244312, 1168 x 804px View full size
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By dnaiscool
Mar 26, 2015
I think this traverse is the actual crux, while the horn move is the money for the route. I led this for the first time in the fall of'71 when I was 16, and my second peeled off the traverse and shot down and right over the lip of the dihedral. He was brickin', but managed to yard up the rope to a pin I'd placed near the horn. He got that out..dropped it...and did get up on the horn; however, he froze up sitting on the horn, so I had to escape the belay, and lower myself down to him on a prussik to literally pull him up on to the top of the buldge.
I had a second prussik (The RCS trained me to always carry two) to clip him to at that stance. I never climbed with him again. But he probably did not want to climb with me any more either, because when I led that pitch, I had to drop my drawers and hoist a massive dump right down the face below, so he had to deal with that stench while belaying me...might have led to his fall, who knows.
Ahh...such fond memories of The Traitor Horn.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Mar 26, 2015
Buahaha! Epic!!!

Interesting photo, too.
By Jorge Gonzalez
From: San Gabriel, CA
Oct 27, 2015
Is that how the climb somewhat below got its name: "Shit for Brains"?
Photo 24 of 29
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Thi-Ly Hayes getting set to do the cruxy traverse that gets you over to the actual horn move.

Submitted By: dnaiscool on Mar 26, 2015
On this route:
Traitor Horn (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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