Questiong About Impact Force Difference Between Single and Half Ropes
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So looking at say a Beal Joker Unicore the single rope impact for is 7.9-8.2KN. For half rope it's listed as 5.6-5.8KN. Is this because they doing the testing for all half ropes with a 55kg weight and singles with 80kg? I'm assuming that also means even if using this rope in a half rope configuration the impact force for an 80kg climbing is still 7.9-8.2kn. Is that correct since only one line is taking the impact still? |
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youve got it ... |
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Cool. For some reason I keep getting sent to a foreign language site for Beal so I can't really read what anything says. Your link works though. Thanks. |
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Eric LaRoche wrote:Cool. For some reason I keep getting sent to a foreign language site for Beal so I can't really read what anything says. Your link works though. Thanks. Just for thought. If you had two piece of marginal gear right next to each other and clip one rope to each would the impact force on the climber be 25% more but the impact on each piece of gear be half of the single rope impact since they'd be sharing the load?assuming everything is absolutely symmetrical the entire way up ... the impact force would be the same as for twin ropes overall ... which is roughly 25% higher than the single rope (80 kg) force which itself is roughly 25% higher than a half rope (55 kg) ... now if you had 2 pieces of gear to split up the force ... then the load on each piece should be half the total on the runner adding in for the pulley effect ... remember that the UIAA number is for the force on the climber, not the last runner DAV forces on belayer, climber, top runner, and rope path/drag however in real life things are almost never perfectly symmetrical ;) |
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Yeah sorry, I was throwing in forces at two different points in the system. I understand that the rating for ropes is on the climber and the gear is going to have a different load amount. |