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Routes in Military Wall
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All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beene Material T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daisychain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Etrier S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Henry Kissinger’s Glasses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Beat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mental Health T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Nicoderm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5 |
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Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Special impetus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stacy's Farewell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Subatomic Fingerlock T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slab S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Larry Day, Tom Seibert - 1979 |
| Page Views: | 9,314 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
One of the best trad routes in the Gorge, hands down. Also an interesting adventure and a sandbag. Rated traditionally at 5.9+, one is left to wonder, "Plus what?" I say, plus one.
P1, 100'+, 5.9: Climb up the initial corner on good jams, mostly hands-sized and up to the roof. Figure out how to get out to the end of the roof to the belay, which is awesome and not hard at all. Do not let the appearance of the roof from below intimidate you. Belay on large gear (in my case a #4 camalot and a large hex) before heading up and out over the lip of the roof.
P2, 100', 5.10: Place a piece of gear at or above the lip and Climb up over it, being conscious of where your last piece of good gear is- you can ill-afford a fall past your belayer here. Beat the lip and pull into fantastic stems. I think I recall placing red and brown tricams, but TCU's might also work. Continue up the stemming to the top of the wonderful corner (5.9) and finish on face climbing (5.8, PG-13) to the top of the cliff.
Belay from and rap off of some webbing on a large tree. 2 60M ropes required to rap off.
P1, 100'+, 5.9: Climb up the initial corner on good jams, mostly hands-sized and up to the roof. Figure out how to get out to the end of the roof to the belay, which is awesome and not hard at all. Do not let the appearance of the roof from below intimidate you. Belay on large gear (in my case a #4 camalot and a large hex) before heading up and out over the lip of the roof.
P2, 100', 5.10: Place a piece of gear at or above the lip and Climb up over it, being conscious of where your last piece of good gear is- you can ill-afford a fall past your belayer here. Beat the lip and pull into fantastic stems. I think I recall placing red and brown tricams, but TCU's might also work. Continue up the stemming to the top of the wonderful corner (5.9) and finish on face climbing (5.8, PG-13) to the top of the cliff.
Belay from and rap off of some webbing on a large tree. 2 60M ropes required to rap off.
Location
Get up to Military wall and head left. Keep heading left past all of the known and established sport routes, and until you hit a large right-facing corner with a hide roof above it leading into another corner, now left-facing.
There is a huge yellow/green patch on the left wall not far from the base and a giant, nearly perfectly shaped pine tree below this. The corner system through the roof is Jungle Beat.
There is a huge yellow/green patch on the left wall not far from the base and a giant, nearly perfectly shaped pine tree below this. The corner system through the roof is Jungle Beat.
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