REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: In the flare on P1
Id# 110215854, 1500 x 1500px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By dnaiscool
Apr 1, 2015
The grunt P1 of this otherwise stellar route is thrashy "down payment" you have to do to earn the sweetness that is above. When I did this pitch in '91 it was coated with Silverfish, which made the thing really slippery and sorta creepy.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 12, 2016
Glad to hear that this feature has cleaned up.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Mar 29, 2017
I had a complete pumpfest on this pitch in 1978 or so as my first 5.9 lead...returned years later and it really is much, much easier if you stay on the outside and stem as much as possible. No trouble protecting it this way either. If you stay inside for security it is definitely a thrash. Basically if you are using any sort of chimney move you are doing it wrong, or at least making it harder on yourself.
Photo 12 of 32
Avg Score   2.0 from 1 votes
Your Score   

In the flare on P1

Submitted By: Seth Derr on Mar 20, 2015
On this route:
Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a )
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About