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Physical Graffiti
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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After The Gold Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Avoid the Rush T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between Heaven and Earth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bolter's Lament T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A2 |
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Bolting for Glory T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Briny Deep, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cave Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Centaur T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Contest, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Element X T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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Fools Learn TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Genius Loci S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Green Willow Wall T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hayden's Line T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Inset, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Jules Verne T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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King Tut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Le Void T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Lene's Dream T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Love Minus Zero T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Naked Edge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Natural Mystic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Bad Aid Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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One Way Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Orifophobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physical Graffiti S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plastic Jesus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Predator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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PsychGillLogical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rosy Crucifixion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Beyond T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seams Beyond Variation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seize of Holds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Serpent, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shasta T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sickness Unto Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Slots of Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slow Train Coming T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Superlink, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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T2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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T2 Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Touch 'N' Go T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Venus de Milo T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Weeping Willow T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Wild Kingdom T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingless Victory S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Young Good Free Face T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Eric Johnson, Alex Shainman |
| Page Views: | 2,183 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | EDJ Johnson on Jan 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This pitch has some fun moves on nice stone in a great position. The bulge requires you to get the Led out for sure! It is a great alternative to the junky pitch on upper T2. It is possible to lead from the Upper Ramp from either Love Minus Zero or After The Gold Rush into the shallow corner on L.M.Z. in one mega pitch!
Location
Begin at the small stance where P4 of T2 and P3 of Love Minus Zero join about 120 feet up the wall. A bomber belay with large wires can be set here. Follow bolts up and rising to the left, then over the bulge. Climb twenty five feet of easy ground from the last bolt to the anchor and the belay niche.
Protection
6 bolts to slung horn anchor. Either continue with Seams Beyond or T2 to the summit or rap 60m to the Upper Ramp. You can also get to the Le Void anchor then to the ramp with one 70m rope.
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