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Routes in Main Wall
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45 MPH WI4 |
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Banana WI4 M5-6 |
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Center Pillar WI4- |
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Cigar WI3 M4 |
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Dead Deer Gully WI3 |
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Evil Twin WI5+ |
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Homeland Insecurity WI4 |
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Left Corner WI3 |
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Lock 20 South WI3 |
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Locktenders T WI4 |
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Main Flow WI4 |
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Main Gully WI3- |
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Mixed Emotions T WI4 PG13 |
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Pencil WI5 |
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| Type: | Ice, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,464 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Annibali on Feb 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Beginning February 1st and lasting until July 31st, a section of the Nockamixon Cliffs Natural Area in Delaware Canal State Park will be CLOSED TO ALL ACTIVITY. Closure information can be found at: epaclimbers.org/portfolio/t…
Details
DCNR PUBLIC STATEMENT: Beginning February 1st and lasting until July 31st, a section of the Nockamixon Cliffs Natural Area in Delaware Canal State Park will be CLOSED ALL ACTIVITY. This closure is to protect an endangered species nesting area during its most sensitive time. As a governmental organization dedicated to land and environmental stewardship, it is our responsibility to ensure the best possible outcome for this species that has decided to nest in the area. In this case, recreation must take a backseat to wildlife conservation. Closed areas will be posted with signs; the closure is located in the middle of the cliffs, with areas at either end open to normal winter activities if conditions exist. Both Delaware Canal State Park and PA Game Commission officers will be enforcing this closure. Due to the species being protected by many laws, including the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, failure to comply with the closures could lead to very hefty fines - up to $5,000. We appreciate the understanding from the ice climbing community, as we recognize that many of you are environmental stewards yourselves and want to see these creatures flourish. So I appreciate your patience as we enter into a new mode of operation, and I thank you for helping the species by obeying the closure.
Description
This is another reliable and popular climb. This gully like Main Gully has many different variations after the second pitch. Many climber will solo up the first two pitches. The first pitch has a series of short steps that you climb up. The second pitch is pretty easy mostly just climbing over 4 foot spread out steps. At the end of the second pitch you can either go straight up toward the main head wall or you can go left and climb up a short ice curtain that is about 15 feet high. If you go the straight way the last step is about 8 feet tall.
Pitch 1: ( WI 2+ 65 feet) You will have to scramble up from the road a little ways until you reach the beginning of the gully. You will see a fallen tree over the start of the first pitch. Climb from the fallen tree up a series of steps until you reach chain anchors on the left. The chains will be right after you top out.
Pitch 2: ( WI 2 ) This is a really easy pitch. Climb over boulders and short ice steps until you reach the main head wall. Right before the main head wall you will hit a 8 foot high ice steep. you can either go over it which is the easiest way, or go to the left and climb a 15 foot high ice curtain and then walk to the start of the climb.
Pitch 3: ( WI 3+ 40 Ft) This is also called Right Headwall. This is the most reliable line on the head wall. Climb the series of 3 distinctive tiers to the top. This route is to the middle right on the head wall. There will be chains about 10 feet back from the end of the climb or you can use a tree.
Rap down using a slinged tree to the right (looking down) you will need to do a double rope rappel to make it all the way to the next chains, or you can just use a tree if you have a single rope. Rap off of the chains at the end of the first pitch.
The video below is of Ross Purnell leading the first pitch of Dead Deer Gully.
youtube.com/watch?v=jmYt5vH…
Pitch 1: ( WI 2+ 65 feet) You will have to scramble up from the road a little ways until you reach the beginning of the gully. You will see a fallen tree over the start of the first pitch. Climb from the fallen tree up a series of steps until you reach chain anchors on the left. The chains will be right after you top out.
Pitch 2: ( WI 2 ) This is a really easy pitch. Climb over boulders and short ice steps until you reach the main head wall. Right before the main head wall you will hit a 8 foot high ice steep. you can either go over it which is the easiest way, or go to the left and climb a 15 foot high ice curtain and then walk to the start of the climb.
Pitch 3: ( WI 3+ 40 Ft) This is also called Right Headwall. This is the most reliable line on the head wall. Climb the series of 3 distinctive tiers to the top. This route is to the middle right on the head wall. There will be chains about 10 feet back from the end of the climb or you can use a tree.
Rap down using a slinged tree to the right (looking down) you will need to do a double rope rappel to make it all the way to the next chains, or you can just use a tree if you have a single rope. Rap off of the chains at the end of the first pitch.
The video below is of Ross Purnell leading the first pitch of Dead Deer Gully.
youtube.com/watch?v=jmYt5vH…
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