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Wichita or Quartz Mountains top route routes

Original Post
David-Gman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

Hello everyone,

My family and I have started climbing. We climb as much as we can in the Wichita Mountains (bouldering and scrambling) and at a local climbing gym. Since we're new to the sport (yet hopelessly addicted), we haven't acquired much gear or expertise. I am considering gearing up for top roping.

My question is this: Are there any of you out there who have top roped in the Quartz or Wichitas and could share your experience? I have read in the mountain project and in a climbing guide about which routes are top rope routes. However, I can't quite figure out if they will need to be lead to set up a top rope or if they are accessible by other means for setting up the top rope.

I wouldn't worry about it much, but I can't afford the protection for lead climbing yet and I don't have lead climbing expertise...yet.

coltonlb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I am planning on climbing in the refuge the last week of this month if you're interested.

crankenstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 0

Not much top roping at Quartz without a leader. Check Mt. Scott for the easiest walking access to top roping. A lot of good stuff there.

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

Not many TR setups to do at Quartz.

The most used bolted anchor at Quartz is above Super Slide/Accidents/WGT Juice. Easy to reach and set up, but serves all three routes so its busy.

Other TR setups require that you lead a route first and or need gear.

Lots of boulders to climb too.

I would suggest the Wichitas are far better spot. In the Narrows, you can set up on the Crazy Alice anchor to TR several routes (expect crowds). Over on the Leaning Tower, a bolted anchor for Lycra Sheath. Meat Slab is fun (bring extra long slings for the anchor). At the Meadows, you can climb up the back side and set up at the bolted anchor for Taco Time. Upper Mount Scott, Simply Red has a bolted TR anchor. You can also find a few good TR anchors over around Atomic Knee Drop too.

Enjoy. Find a trad guy, and learn to lead... you'll find your options really open up then.

David-Gman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

I just spotted another post similar to mine. There is lots of great advise. However, I'm still open for suggestions!

Craig and Crankenstein,thanks for your suggestions. I plan to learn to lead, but I'm not geared up for it yet and I'm new to the climbing community so I don't yet have climbing buddies :(

Coltonb,

I sent you a PM.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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