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Routes in Emerald City
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Black Out T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bulge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diamond In The Rough S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Father's Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Friable T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lollipop Kids S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Man Behind the Curtain, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mandarin TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Place Like Home S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruby Slippers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sharp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Shining, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spiny Norman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TNT T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whiteout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiteout Direct (aka Nerds) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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WICKED T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Brick Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 9,886 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.
Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. A single rappel with a 60m will get you to the ground with a little rope to spare, or you can rappel to the first pitch anchors and reset for a final ~10m rappel.
This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!
Location
From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.
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