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11 - The Cookie Sheet

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cookie Sheet, The S 
Darkside T 
Emm Too T 
Eye Noir S 
Plastic Jesus T 
Slipstream T 
Smear Campaign T 
Wump World T 

11 - The Cookie Sheet Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.71965, -119.71965 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,355
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Feb 9, 2010

70° | 44°

68° | 39°

60° | 36°

61° | 38°

66° | 39°

70° | 43°
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This is the large slab directly up and east from the Cookie Cliff. Home to many good slab routes from two to four pitches with the majority being three to four pitches. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.11
Not many people use this cliff, however, it is a great place to go if you are looking for moderate climbs down canyon. There are many of them here at the Cookie Sheet!

Getting There 

Park at the Cookie and walk up the talus to the right. Or park at the small pullout between the Cookie and Knobby Wall, and walk up the old road until you reach the talus. Follow the cairns. At the top of the talus head to the right and gain the left side of the slab.

Climbing Season

For the Lower Merced River Canyon area.

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 11 - The Cookie Sheet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 11 - The Cookie Sheet:
Darkside   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Wump World   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   
Slipstream   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Smear Campaign   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 11 - The Cookie Sheet

Featured Route For 11 - The Cookie Sheet
Rock Climbing Photo: view from top of P3

Smear Campaign 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : 11 - The Cookie Sheet
This was my favorite of the Cookie Sheet routes I've done so far. It is possibly the longest on the wall, reaching the highest point on the slab over on the right side. The route begins on the far right side of the highest ledge system, just before a drop-off.The first pitch climbs through some 5.8 friction and then some small corners and features up to the anchor. The second pitch is hard for 20 ft right off the belay and has a tenuous clip at the first bolt. Have your belayer hanging out to th...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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By squiddo Siddens
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 26, 2010
Great little area with a bunch of moderate and well protected apron/slab routes. Approach, bolts and anchors are all solid. Bob and Clint did a wonderful job here. Hats off to you both!
By David Whitelaw
Nov 26, 2012
Most of the routes on the main face of the Cookie Sheet were put up between 2006 and 2008 by Dan Dingle, David Whitelaw, and Bob Steed. Dingle and Whitelaw, residents of Seattle, made 6 trips down here during those years to work on these routes. In spring of 2007 they met Bob Steed and the three joined forces to work on the development here. Later Bob and Clint added some of the crack lines located in the woods below the slab.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 20, 2013
Fun moderate slab climbs. Gets sun until mid-day. Good place to climb if you are all burnt out from crack/ow climbing.

The first half of the second pitch of The Dark Side still felt like polished 5.7 to us, not 5.5. The second half of pitch two was 5.5.
By Yung Kuo
Jul 5, 2017
The satellite approach image is super helpful, but parking is at E2 sign not M2. However, we parked at Cascades Picnic Area and walked over. There's a bathroom at the picnic area. We saw 4-5 ropes stuck and hanging on the wall. Not sure who left so many ropes there.

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