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1.1 - Old Sandstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

1.1 - Old Sandstone Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,127'
Location: 43.4137, -89.6863 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,273
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002

85° | 62°

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BETA PHOTO: Old and new access


The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.

Getting There 

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.

The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.

Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 1.1 - Old Sandstone:
Chez's Chimney   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   
Chez's Chimney variation   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Swillbillies   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 45'   
Everleigh Club Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Curving Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
American Beauty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
Ptooey   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 40'   
Wobbly Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Out There   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     TR, 1 pitch   
Alligator Wall   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mammalary Magic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Team Arturo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 50'   
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Tarantula   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   
Gargantua   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Has Been   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Baker Street   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Seven Seas   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 40'   
Pacific Ocean Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR   
Uberschmidt   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

Featured Route For 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Rock Climbing Photo: Pacific Ocean Wall

Pacific Ocean Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : 1.1 - Old Sandstone
Pacific Ocean Wall is the large scoop on the right hand side of Old Sandstone--it looks like a crashing wave. Also, it looks like the crux is under the wave or pulling out of it. Wrong. Thin but positive flakes bring you to the lip of the wave. Above the lip, expect sloping handholds and subtle smearing--classic sandstone climbing. A few tough, insecure pulls deposit you at the top of one of the best routes at Devil's Lake....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of 1.1 - Old Sandstone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.
BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Old and new access
BETA PHOTO: Old and new access
Rock Climbing Photo: More rock past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.
Rock Climbing Photo: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...
BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...
Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...

Comments on 1.1 - Old Sandstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Justin Meyer
From: Madison, WI
May 16, 2017
As of 5/14/17 there were a lot of black flies at old sandstone. They can draw blood and leave itchy welts so bring bug spray and/or long sleeves, pants and a hat just in case they are still around. They have a limited season so they should be gone by June at the latest. They aren't terrible but climbing will be more fun if you aren't being bitten.

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