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Routes in (c) East Sector
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Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bacon Strip T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Birthday Suit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disciples S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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For Pete’s Sake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7 |
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Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5 |
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Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Reign S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rasberry Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swordfish Lipstick S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | First pitch unknown, Nate Brown and Sam Macke second pitch |
| Page Views: | 1,818 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Brown on Jan 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
First pitch is 30 meters of seasonally different but dependable ice. Overhanging hard non-bolted M7 or M8 if not fully formed(I'm a bad judge of m-ratings FYI). Some years the chimney forms a burly 70' of difficult ice climbing. Tobey Grohne sent the pitch several years ago, Macke threw down a proud onsight the day we did the second pitch. Hard to know the early history of this dependable tram accessed drip...
Second pitch is 30 more meters of difficult rock climbing with some loose rock. Probably M6+?. It would rate 5.10 in rock shoes. A hand crack roof with slabby feet marks the crux. This pitch was also crampon-clad onsighted on its (pitch 2) FA.
Second pitch is 30 more meters of difficult rock climbing with some loose rock. Probably M6+?. It would rate 5.10 in rock shoes. A hand crack roof with slabby feet marks the crux. This pitch was also crampon-clad onsighted on its (pitch 2) FA.
Location
Route is on the eastern-most large formation of the buttress about 20' east of "Knocking on the Sky"
Route can be rapped with one 60 meter cord. Beware the top rap barely reaches the anchor atop the ice.
Route can be rapped with one 60 meter cord. Beware the top rap barely reaches the anchor atop the ice.
Protection
Pins through 4 Camalot with plenty ice screws will do the job. 2 stainless steel bolts and hangers now live at the 30 meter mark at the top of the ice. 2 more ss bolts live 30 meters higher at the end of the technical terrain. The pro on p1 is kinda scarce through the crux and very trad making this lead feel a little scary compared to a bolted M8.
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