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Rock Climbing Photo: The North Wall is the area to the right of this ma...
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 4, 2015
Looks steep and highly featured. There ought to be some very nice face routes on that wall.

Is there much loose stuff?
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Mar 4, 2015
Jon, yes there is a lot of debris on the ledges (especially on the top ledge), some of it really big, and in the cracks, but the rock is sound - also highly featured with an abundance of pockets (often dirt and moss filled - like they haven't been touched since the ice age melted out....), incut edges, and even some knobby chicken heads! The overhanging rock tends to be rounded and grainy (doesn't get much weathering), but there are some excellent looking vertical crack lines in this northern area (100-200' lines). I'm pretty much limited to 5.10 and under these days, but I'm sure someone could find much harder stuff worth doing.

I plan to do this main corner pretty soon - I guess it'll go at 5.7 or 8.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 5, 2015
Wow, that is incredible. Thanks.
Also fantastic that there are so many sub-10 routes.

I really must check this place out!
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Mar 5, 2015
Update on this area; I went to do the big corner crack today... set some bolts at the top (no gear anchors there) and rapped it. I trundled a lot of rock on the upper half and then discovered a big owl (maybe a Barred Owl) setting on a nest deep in the crack about half way down. She flew off revealing 2 huge eggs! Pretty cool (a first for me). After that I got down as fast as I could.

So spring is out; in the autumn perhaps it is climbable (summer probably too hot and snaky). You were right Jon, it is steep, The bottom 100' was overhanging, and the lower crack is huge - really a chimney filled with large chockstones for about 80'. The rappel was 165', but the climb would be about 195'.

I'd have to say it has a pretty high pucker factor, easily a PG ("pucker grade") 13. It may well be only a 5.7 or 8 gear route, but it looked like a 9 to me, and something I'll probably leave for a bolder-not-older generation.

At the bottom there are some huge boulders (fell out of the huge overhang at the top to the right), I kept thinking a cougar would ambush me in there...! Also the rock on the overhanging base of the North Wall is pretty rotten. It seems to deteriorate the further north up the canyon you go. The South Wall is much friendlier...
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Mar 6, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: The owl nest is at the white spot just below the s...
The owl nest is at the white spot just below the shadow in the middle of the photo.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 7, 2015
Great story, thanks!
If I were an owl, I might pick that spot too. Looks like quite the cool hangout, and of course an owl would know.
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The North Wall is the area to the right of this main corner.

Submitted By: applewood on Dec 14, 2014
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