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> Crosier Mtn Crags
> Upper Tier Main Crag
Summit Fever
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,109 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Dec 13, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route has great slab climbing followed by fun jugs out a roof. This may be the best moderate route at Crosier.
Start in a left-facing dihedral at the west end of the upper cliff behind Squat Tower.
P1 5.8. Climb the dihedral, and do the crux lieback moves onto the slab to the right. Continue diagonalling up and right past a bolt then climb a left arching hand crack in a flake. Slide past a tree then head straight up on plates and slabs to a big ledge with a huge, dead tree stump. The chain anchors are 35m from the ground.
P2 5.6. Climb straight up the slab above towards the roof. Turn the roof via jugs on the right side.
Descent: after enjoying the summit, head back and climber's right. Next scramble down the climber's right side of the large gash. Finally head climber's left, passing behind Totem Tower, back to the base of the route.
Start in a left-facing dihedral at the west end of the upper cliff behind Squat Tower.
P1 5.8. Climb the dihedral, and do the crux lieback moves onto the slab to the right. Continue diagonalling up and right past a bolt then climb a left arching hand crack in a flake. Slide past a tree then head straight up on plates and slabs to a big ledge with a huge, dead tree stump. The chain anchors are 35m from the ground.
P2 5.6. Climb straight up the slab above towards the roof. Turn the roof via jugs on the right side.
Descent: after enjoying the summit, head back and climber's right. Next scramble down the climber's right side of the large gash. Finally head climber's left, passing behind Totem Tower, back to the base of the route.
Location
This is located on the upper cliff band starting behind Squat Tower. Approach one of three ways: first by climbing the first pitch of Squat Tower then traversing left to the base of the route. The second is by climbing to the top of Squat Tower and scrambling via third class down the back side of the tower. Or the third is by hiking up the gully around the west end of Main Crag. If you hike up, once around the west end of Main Crag head all the way up to the cliff before heading up the gully. Then follow cairns along the cliff to avoid a lot of down timber and bushwhacking.
See the topo and photos.
See the topo and photos.
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