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Routes in (1) School Gate
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Little Creature Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oh! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piranha S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reincarnation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Seacrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seaface T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stairway To Heaven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stepover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-up Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Ta-Chi Wang, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 908 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Jan 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
Follows a thin crack all the way to the top of the formation. A powerful bouldery start gives way to fun, varied, moderate climbing. This route could easily be done on trad gear.
Make a series of tough moves to get up and around the overhang. There are probably a few ways to do this, but the crux can be perplexing. Once on the face, use the crack to layback and toe-jam your way up to a juggy flake. Continue up the crack to some pockety rock and a ledge. Follow the diagonal crack through some jumbled rock to another ledge. A tricky slab section protects the anchors directly above, or just step right to the anchors on Disco Fistcrack.
Make a series of tough moves to get up and around the overhang. There are probably a few ways to do this, but the crux can be perplexing. Once on the face, use the crack to layback and toe-jam your way up to a juggy flake. Continue up the crack to some pockety rock and a ledge. Follow the diagonal crack through some jumbled rock to another ledge. A tricky slab section protects the anchors directly above, or just step right to the anchors on Disco Fistcrack.
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