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Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the second deadpoint on 'Ghetto Knowledge...
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By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 14, 2015
I got on this today and thought this was a really cool line. I stuck the first deadpoint 3 or 4 times but never managed to get the second big move. Is it more of a dyno off of the small crimp?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 15, 2015
Glad you gave this thing some goes. I honestly think it's one of the best lines in Pway. High rock quality, aesthetic, athletic moves, highball- so many good attributes.

Anyhow, when I get the crimp with my right hand, I flip my left hand so I can use the starting hold feature as sort of a sidepull/undercling. And then I just generate as much power as I can to deadpoint up to the good incut. I'm a little under 5'10" with maybe a +1 or +2 ape index and this deadpoint is max extension for me (in terms of being able to keep my left foot on the decent foothold). You might be able to just dyno as the incut is pretty decent if you can generate enough momentum. I never tried it that way.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Oct 13, 2016
Got on this again yesterday. I'm at 5 sessions. Haven't been able to stick the first move again since the first session. Feels much harder than High Tech Issues for me. I am determined to get it though!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 13, 2016
If you want, email me and I'll share the link of the private video of me doing it. Unless Ian has already showed it to you. It's reachy, that's for sure, but so good.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Oct 13, 2016
I haven't shared, but it's ridiculously finicky to the point of being random for me. It was all about how I hung off the left hand and how I grabbed it. I basically tried to pull the hold off the wall, then locked off as far as possible with my chin literally on the wall, and then deadpointed the last couple of inches to the hold, after that flip left hand, left foot obvious spot and go for it. My foot stayed for the second move, and I don't have much reach on you Troy, but it was the same for me. Actually a really good problem but elusive as hell. Still haven't done the trifecta of left hand gastons in the area (pace is the trick is so hard, thinking 9 on it actually, v9 gaston trifecta!), but definitely want to.
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Sticking the second deadpoint on 'Ghetto Knowledge' (v8/9).

Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 8, 2014
On this route:
Ghetto Knowledge (V9 7C )
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