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Routes in Castle Dome
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Castle Blaster (aka The Oregonian) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Castle Dome - 4th class route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X |
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Dike Route (aka East Face), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Book, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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North Face - Castle Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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NW Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bob Rears - 1964 |
| Page Views: | 6,694 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | roberttadina on Oct 29, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
I climbed this route with Grover Shipman who has a guide book published called "Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing" that has proven more than useful. This route was one of the best I had done in the area. It was exposed, scenic, a mix of shade and sun. And some of the scariest rock I have climbed on(though nothing blew out or fell so that was nice)
the route starts out with a few exposed moves on pretty solid rock, which was nice because the first placement was 15 feet up. shortly after that you get to a belay next to a small tree. next pitch works up a large slab and through some loose rock to a good area for a cam nest. next is the no reverse traverse which felt about 5.6 or 5.5 which came as a surprise because most guide books said 5.0(perhaps we were off route)the next pitch was on a giant flake that at the top started to flex. with some more climbing and chimneying you gain a nice ledge. next pitch starts off straight forward but moves into a well protected crux that felt about 5.9 the next pitch is a simple but long route to the castle dome summit
the route starts out with a few exposed moves on pretty solid rock, which was nice because the first placement was 15 feet up. shortly after that you get to a belay next to a small tree. next pitch works up a large slab and through some loose rock to a good area for a cam nest. next is the no reverse traverse which felt about 5.6 or 5.5 which came as a surprise because most guide books said 5.0(perhaps we were off route)the next pitch was on a giant flake that at the top started to flex. with some more climbing and chimneying you gain a nice ledge. next pitch starts off straight forward but moves into a well protected crux that felt about 5.9 the next pitch is a simple but long route to the castle dome summit
Location
the route can be found by approaching castle dome via the dome trail. once at the dome head north down a narrow gully about 400-500 feet long. descend the gully to the end where it drops off suddenly and you will see a dike on your right just opposite of a big tree. that is the start of the first pitch. Descend via the SE "walk-off" don't be ashamed to rope up for descent as the exposure can be quite interesting.
Photos
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