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Routes in Molllie's Little Big Man Tower
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Mollie Goes Dustin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Steve "Crusher" Bartlett and Roy "wish I had a cool nick name like that" Suggett |
| Page Views: | 1,295 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Roy Suggett on Oct 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Climb: Molllie's Little Big Man Tower
Description: This tower (Mollie's Little Big Man) has more possible lines and sits isolated from any similar features on a rolling high plain of mostly sand. I believe the main tower structure is the Entrada Formation and the cap rock to be the Dakota Formation. The best part of our line (Mollie Goes Dustin) is that you can easily reach and camp right under this stunning monolith. On the steep southeast sides left most crack starts the old school aiding.
Pitch I: Start on an easy slab prior to reaching the crack. Here it steepens and gear can be placed before you reach the first bolt. Clip in and the pinning begins. There is a mix of pin types and cams used to reach the two bolt belay midway through the line. You can choose to just clip the anchor and keep moving up making this a long one pitch route or transition here for a two pitch climb. This first pitch can go free at around 10a if you traverse right at the first bolt and on to the patinaed face. Head straight up from here to the anchor. There currently are no bolts on this part of the face and it must be top roped.
Pitch II: Starting again in aid, move straight up and clip the first bolt of this pitch. This bolt may seem a bit off line so runner it long. Crusher had to work from here a good long while before sending a 500 lb. death block down (see photo below). The beast is still visible, though no longer its former self, on the deck. Let this be a guide for both climbing and parking! Next, move up again and left in the protected alcove to a right arching crack. Cams, nuts, and pins through some A2 gets you to just under the cap rock where the overhung looseness and crux gets you pumped to reach the much harder conglomerate material of the cap rock and your second bolt of the second pitch. Clip this and aid on to a ledge where the anchor can be reached.
Description: This tower (Mollie's Little Big Man) has more possible lines and sits isolated from any similar features on a rolling high plain of mostly sand. I believe the main tower structure is the Entrada Formation and the cap rock to be the Dakota Formation. The best part of our line (Mollie Goes Dustin) is that you can easily reach and camp right under this stunning monolith. On the steep southeast sides left most crack starts the old school aiding.
Pitch I: Start on an easy slab prior to reaching the crack. Here it steepens and gear can be placed before you reach the first bolt. Clip in and the pinning begins. There is a mix of pin types and cams used to reach the two bolt belay midway through the line. You can choose to just clip the anchor and keep moving up making this a long one pitch route or transition here for a two pitch climb. This first pitch can go free at around 10a if you traverse right at the first bolt and on to the patinaed face. Head straight up from here to the anchor. There currently are no bolts on this part of the face and it must be top roped.
Pitch II: Starting again in aid, move straight up and clip the first bolt of this pitch. This bolt may seem a bit off line so runner it long. Crusher had to work from here a good long while before sending a 500 lb. death block down (see photo below). The beast is still visible, though no longer its former self, on the deck. Let this be a guide for both climbing and parking! Next, move up again and left in the protected alcove to a right arching crack. Cams, nuts, and pins through some A2 gets you to just under the cap rock where the overhung looseness and crux gets you pumped to reach the much harder conglomerate material of the cap rock and your second bolt of the second pitch. Clip this and aid on to a ledge where the anchor can be reached.
Location
To reach this tower, drive (two wheel OK, high clearance preferred) to the central area of the community (Big Water Utah) and turn south on Yankee Doodle Rd. Follow this about 1/3 of a mile to a dirt road on the right marked "State Lands". Follow this for about 1/2 mile to the tower. This line (Mollie Goes Dustin) is on the SE prow of the tower now known as "Mollie's Little Big Man"
Protection
Cams: BDs: One .3, two .4s, two .5s, three .75s, three 1s, three 2s, three 3s, four 4s, and one #5. One each yellow and grey alien and two red aliens.
Passive: One each of Lowe Tricams pink through brown and a few large nuts.
Pins: Three large Peckery/Toma Hawks, six Knife blades/Bugaboos, one L.A., and one baby angle. This and a whole lot of QDs and runners gets you to a three bolt anchor.
Anchor: The anchor is slung with a cut end of climbing rope, equalized and has a quick-link and bail beaner at its apex.
Descent: Two 60 meter ropes gets you down.
Passive: One each of Lowe Tricams pink through brown and a few large nuts.
Pins: Three large Peckery/Toma Hawks, six Knife blades/Bugaboos, one L.A., and one baby angle. This and a whole lot of QDs and runners gets you to a three bolt anchor.
Anchor: The anchor is slung with a cut end of climbing rope, equalized and has a quick-link and bail beaner at its apex.
Descent: Two 60 meter ropes gets you down.
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