Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: I.Altman, K. Alinger, J. Kelly in two separate attempts in 1996. FFA - I. Altman , J. Hooten on what became "Judgment Day" - 9/12/2001
Page Views: 2,379 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ian Altman on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Located directly access the river from the "10 Mile Crag", this skinny, rectangular block and tower is separated from the main wall by about 5-10 feet. The line of weakness that divides it makes for a uniquely classic desert route that involves a challenging stem-box and splitter finger crack. Beginning with some wild and difficult stemming (5.11b), the line then quickly enters a dead vertca.l locker finger crack surrounded by good feet. (5.10). After an anchor is reached at 90' feet, another short pitch brings you to the skinny summit (5.10). A two bolt anchor will get you to the ground in a 35m+ rap. The entire route can be done in a single 35-meter pitch if desired. See the topo for more detail.

On the first attempt, we climbed the stem-box with several points of aid (KBs, LAs, and small wires) and then free climbed the awesome splitter to the mid-point anchor. Later that year we freed the bottom using clean pro and the fixed pitons for protection, and made it to the top with one additional pitch. In 2001 (the day after 9/11), we returned, cleaned the pins, placed 3 bolts on lead, and made this thing the classic that is still standing today.

Another memorable event that seems like ancient history when you look at the Dolores today - the first accent party crossed the river in a canoe at high water and almost almost dumped it on the way back! The Dolores River never seems to get released now… leaving way for many FAs on the other side. So, get after it people!

Protection Suggest change

Gear in "Friend" sizing:
1/3" & 3/8" - 1 each
1/2" - 2
3/4" (yellow Aliens or 0.4 Cams) - 3 or 4
1" - 2
1.5" - 2
2.5" & 3" - 1 each
small to medium wires
3 bolts.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at 90' and a 2 bolt anchor on top.

Photos

loading