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Raven Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Raven Rock

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	Dead of Winter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Nevermore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Persimmon Sky T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

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Elevation:	1,172 ft
GPS:	37.83589, -83.66614 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	9,468 total · 45/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Feb 14, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Raven Rock is more of a Red River icon than it is a climbing Destination. On countless trips in the 80's and 90's people asked "what is that?" pointing upward, and for years I could not say much more than to give its name. Only years after climbing at the red did I ever climb on it. Many climbers never have. Notably, a few quality moderate lines escaped any ascents until the mid 1990's, but the crag seems, like fortress wall, to have remained primarily a trad wall and has not been bolted up.
The crag faces east and gets morning sun.
The most popular (a measured statement) climb at this cliff is "Nevermore, 5.9+" but there are other lines there that are recommended in the book. Beware, the cliff may lend to more adventure than security. The hanger-less bolts on "Nevermore" were total trash even 15 years ago.

Getting There

Drive down Hwy 77 through town and through the Nada Tunnel and a few miles more, passing Military Wall and Left Flank to cross an old Iron Bridge. Park at a pull-off there and take your valuables with you. Cross the bridge back on foot and turn off on a river-side trail walking NW toward the obvious cliff in that direction. After a brief and casual walk, the trail will intercept an old rutted out road, more fit for a mountain bike than a car... Follow the road uphill (somewhat strenuous) until a trail leads up and left to the base of the cliff, arriving at the left side.