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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, John Long, Mark Klemens, 1972
Page Views: 9,305
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Jul 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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YSL making the transition from flare to layback.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Industry standard for 5.10+ wiggling. It's a chimney, it's a flare, it's a fist crack, it's a lieback..... it's a classic! Perfect rock and good pro in the back of the crack. Shady in the afternoons.

The FA team were masters at their craft, so if you are just breaking into the wide and horrible world of 5.10 OW, do a RedBull or something before heading up this one.

click here for a short video clip of the YSL on 1096:


Arches Terrace area. This climb points East in a small alcove directly left of a large slabby inset. The route Hangdog Flyer is directly above 1096 and uses the same anchor. 1096 is to the right of Arches Terrace and Greasy But Groovy. Can't miss it if you walk along the base.


Bring a few small cams for the start, then the business section takes cams around 4". You might need 3 or 4 of these. There might be a fixed pin and fixed #10 hex in the thing.... or there was on 7/07.

Photos of 1096 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Young Strong Local" getting started...
The "Young Strong Local" getting started...
Rock Climbing Photo: Christina in the flare.   Photo: Corey Gargano
Christina in the flare. Photo: Corey Gargano
Rock Climbing Photo: start of the flare, Carter Stritch photo
start of the flare, Carter Stritch photo
Rock Climbing Photo: exit from flare, Carter Stritch photo
BETA PHOTO: exit from flare, Carter Stritch photo
Rock Climbing Photo: mid flare, Carter Stritch photo
BETA PHOTO: mid flare, Carter Stritch photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1096. A view from below.   Photo: Corey Gargano
1096. A view from below. Photo: Corey Gargano

Comments on 1096 Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2016
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 14, 2007

Fantastic. One of the best. Aesthetic, rarely done, and reasonable for the rating.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 21, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Need beta : which "side in" is easier to climb this flare? From the movie of YSL - seems that he is climbing harder way with his left side in. Is right side in is easier?
By Russ Walling
Dec 21, 2007

I've always done it left side in after seeing the picture of Phil Gleason ripping out of the thing right side in....

Alexey, you can always ask over here, too. Lot's of wide guys lurking around there.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 28, 2007

I went left side in, but it probably doesn't matter much. In the bottom 2/3 the flare is very secure, knee foot style with a fist in the back. At the 2/3 point, the outside wall of the flare gets shorter, effectively making the flare less deep. This is the crux since you can't get solid knee-foot action anymore. You could keep thrutching left or right side in with a fist in the back, or turn straight on and fist jam it with both hands. Eventually, you will be pulling into a lieback, and that is definitely going to be easier if you are left side in or straight on.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 9, 2008

My first experience "smelling" ants was at the base of this route. Yuck!
By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 11, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

gear : single from blue alien to red camelot.
dowble #2, #3 ,#4 C4 camelots.
#4 friends or old 3.5 cam worked too. Blue camelot open too wide in the flare.
I want to add that layback looks committing from flare and it about 12 feet no pro, but you do hardest moves right at your last #4 cam at your feet level - and than layback become way easier and easier as you progress up.
The start of the route is scary - you do insecure face traverse- easy to slip- and you 15 feet up with bad landing until you get first pro - blue alien. I did sling the tree - made traverse put gear- traversed back to tree- remove sling and started climbing.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Feb 1, 2011

#3.5 Camalots are the money for this pitch. The #4's are overcammed in a lot of spots but will still work if that's all you got.

Tip for belaying the second:
There's a short traverse left at the top to get onto the ledge with the belay. I couldn't find a good place to get a high directional, and if the second falls here they'll swing a bit. What's worse is that the rope will land directly in a sharp "V" slot formed by the large flake intersecting the wall. The only solution I could come up with was to take my shirt off and stuff it into the slot to at least protect the rope after my partner removed the last directional.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 3, 2015

For the life of me I cannot remember the name of the route directly left in the photo. It's really hard, like .12-something. In some of the pics you can see the diving board feature above it. In 1983 I hung off that diving board and shot pics of Hidetaka Suzuki working the route, with my dear friend Dave Rose belaying. Suzuki was such a gentleman that he would say to Dave, in very broken English, "No, too hard, fall now" and then he would wait patiently for Dave to brace himself and then he would fall. He got it eventually. On another day we went off to do (him) and shoot (me), Separate Reality and Tales of Power. Lots of air beneath those last two, BTW. As I recall, Suzuki cruised them both.
By Russ Walling
Sep 3, 2015

Peter: The route above and left is HangDog Flyer
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 29, 2015

Yes!!!! I remembered it as soon as I read it. I wonder if people do stuff like that anymore (the route, not the losing my mind part)?
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 2, 2016

What an incredible route! I'm not sure which start is the correct one. I looked at the traverse in from the tree on the right on the poor quality darker rock. I ended up starting down and left, and worked up a hand traverse, up and right. It was scarcely protected, but really fun! What's the standard start? Also, unless I missed an anchor, the slung blocks anchor makes it really awkward to clean the route yourself if you don't have someone following.

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