Fixed Pin Publishing is expecting to release their excellent new guidebook for Clear Creek Canyon on October 20, 2014, Rock Climbing Clear Creek Canyon by Kevin Capps and Matt Lloyd. On sale for $28.95 here
Foreword (copied with permission)
"Unleashed from the Rockies, Clear Creek rushes down its canyon like a stampede of wild horses. I was captivated by this energy early one morning as I traversed a steep hillside on my way to work on a new route. Above me, a harem of thirty bighorn sheep lay and watched me pass, though I was halted. A large ram approached from behind as if he followed me in, hooves scraping the dirt and tilting his full-curled horns. On the hill, another found a stance in front of his flock, gazing down on the contender while the ewes remained still during the ensuing rumble. The warriors rose to their hindquarters and repeatedly charged into each other. Their heads reverberated like the crack of a gunshot, so close to me I could feel the power of each blow deep in my chest. If only for that moment, I felt like I belonged with those canyon climbers.
Superficially, Clear Creek Canyon provides a noisy casino speedway and ski-traffic bypass. However after 15 years of exploring and climbing in this urban canyon, I was proud to call it my home crag. My memories have the cathartic sound of whitewater rapids,a buzz of a distant rotary hammer, or try-hard battle cries of fellow climbers.
This was the nearest midweek escape from my white-collar reality. The first tunnel became an event horizon as I drove into the canyon. I felt pulled into each tunnel as if were a black hole, just to choose my own adventure on the other side from over 50 crags and rock formations. More often than not, I conveniently approached them in flip-flops, armed with a rack of draws and a gri-gri, because they have been tamed for our bolt-chasing pleasure.
You will find that the crags of Clear Creek host a variety of climbing styles as diverse as the composition of its metamorphic stone. Experiences range from first leads to first ascents, 5.11-heaven to some of the states hardest lines. Chase down the trendy clip-ups or discover trad obscurities reserved only for the Clear Creek veteran. Test yourself with benchmark projects or tie-in to a handful of multi-pitch outingsthat will take you to surprisingly extraordinary positions, exposed scenarios, and lofty perches high above the water. These are the training grounds for the local weekend warrior while visiting climbers queue for their chance to chalk up for the most sprayed upon classics.
Even with its relatively short climbing history, every decade since the eighties saw an influx of a couple of hundred new routes, established by the growing campaign of devoted Clear Creek Crusaders. After the dust cleared, their rampage yielded some of the canyons best and obvious lines.It was the shoulders of these giants on which we stood. Fortunately, some real gems had been overlooked, but we had to work harder for them.By scheming shenanigans, excavating choss, and stepping off the talus path, we pillaged our own legacy routes.
My earliest escapades in developing new routes were inspired here. One of which Casey Bernal and I climbed in the middle of winter. Dodging falling ice, swinging around on a web of fixed lines, and sharing smokes on the Ashtray Ledge, we hand-drilled the bolts together. We felt as if we were a thousand feet up even though we were only about a hundred. But we didnt care; we were young pioneers.
I spent years refining my modern hook or crook first ascent techniques, and mustering good olschool ground-up courage; doors opened to more self-expression and adventures with great friends. I had the honor to top out with Derek Lawrence after establishing the canyons longest trad route as a farewell tribute to our fallen Big Brother. I looked forward to Tuesday night at the crag with Dave Montgomery as we continually threw ourselves on our bromance proj. I dream to someday see a grin from my son while I belay him above the Creekside tyrol. The next generation will hopefully have even easier and safer access to this climbing resource with the eventual addition of the Clear Creek Canyon Park segment of the Peaks to Plains Trail.
Clear Creek Canyon has become a hot climbing destination and a modern guidebook is essential to fully appreciate its unique character and color. This fresh edition highlights hundreds of new routes, with updated information of the entire stretch of the canyon, as well as new crags not documented on the Internet. Magazine quality photographs truly capture the canyons spirit. Experienced climbers Kevin Capps and Matt Lloyd have not only painstakingly explored almost every route in this guide first-hand, but have each authored many new high end routes of their own. Kevins passion and skill as a mountain guide and instructor is evident with the books practical interface. And while Matt is known as a fearless Jack of All Trades, I consider him a master of the Canyon.
Potential is high for the next generation of aspiring developers and first ascentionists. I am convinced there are easily another couple of hundred more routes locked away in the rugged hillsides and the Crusade will march toward them."
Darren Mabe
Author of Clear Creek Canyon Rock Climbs (2008)
Flagstaff, AZ
February 20, 2014
New CCC guidebook.