REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet...
Id# 109576072, 2000 x 1322px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By Eric Enquist
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Oct 19, 2014
By Mike-R
From: springfield, Mo
Oct 21, 2014
A route to die for
By KurtH
Mar 30, 2015
R/x rating and no chalk? The gear is really good on this line and you can see a chalk bag on Dave's photos. I took some decent falls before sending and always felt safe - great rock quality, plenty of gear options and two bolts down low. Maybe r/x if you didn't use cams though...

That said, this is pretty darn cool that it made Rock and Ice! Great to see MN getting represented!
By Kris Gorny
Apr 1, 2015
One could definitely deck from pretty high up when climbing to the bolts. It is not all that difficult but a broken hold could result in injury or worse. Also, blowing the topout means a screamer on small gear. I'd give it "R", especially for an onsight attempt.

Regardless of the exact grade or safety rating -- spectacular route in a beautiful setting. MN's little climbing gem. Definite hats off to Dave.
By KurtH
May 5, 2015
Good point...for the less bold like I who didn't want to top out on the grass, you can always hang your anchor just over the edge to clip prior. Hats off indeed to those who just go for it!
By Kris Gorny
May 5, 2015
I believe the original top-out traverses right to Hidden Treasure along the top edge. Pulling on tufts of grass would be desperate...not that it hasn't been done, I'm sure :)
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 6, 2015
i agree that the description in the article is not accurate. palisade does not fall into the same level of risk as the other routes mentioned or of other standard "r/x" routes like those found in the needles of SD.

that said, dave put up most of his FAs at palisade on lead. many were done onsight, with no pre-cleaning or inspection. over the years, the lines have been cleaned up a great deal, with fixed protection being added to some. with that in mind, i think palisade could have been R at the time of dave's ascent.

if one were so motivated, she could adjust the grade of palisade -- and many other lines at palisade head -- to fit the current conditions. i would advise against doing so. from arguments over the grade to discrediting ascents, i think changing the grades would open a very large can of worms. i think it is best to just take grades at palisade with a grain of salt and recognize that just because you climb xyz at palisade does not mean you can climb that grade elsewhere.

as for the top-out, i traversed left to hidden treasures. so did chris hirsch. i think that is best solution. this way at least then you are still topping out the wall.
Photo 10 of 14
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet published in Rock and Ice "Ethics Edition" in 2004. Palisaid (Palace-Aid listed as one of the "7 routes to die for").

Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Oct 12, 2014
On this route:
Palisaid (5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c )
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About