Black Crag Rock Climbing

Black Crag is a recently developed sport climbing area. The combination of easy access, spectacular views, and a wealth of moderate climbs means that the area can be very crowded at times.

A typical day at Black Crag

The cliff is south facing. Most routes are the sun, with shaded belays. If you are looking for summer shade, early morning or late afternoon are your best bets.

The routes are on high quality granite. Expect less than vertical face climbing, with the occasional friction slab or roof interspersed. For the hardcore, there are a couple of routes that can be led on gear -- Black and Tan and Black Moth.

The granite is soft in places, particularly the center of the main wall, where the more difficult routes are located. This area also stays damp after rainfall, and several holds have broken off. So, please avoid climbing these routes if they are not dry.

As this is a new area, there is still quite a bit of loose rock, including football to basketball sized boulders, on several routes. View from Black Crag
Route repair