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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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[Redacted] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cold Turkeys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crack'n Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Deacon Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Diana T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ken's Blind Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Steep Hikin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1 |
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Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FA: Art Gran & Phil Jacobus, 1963 FFA: Russ Clune & Jordan Mills, 1993.11.23 |
| Page Views: | 11,089 total · 96/month |
| Shared By: | Sprax Lines on Oct 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Russ Clune and Jordan Mill freed the roof-traverse crux at 13b in 1993, 30 years after Art Gran and Phil Jacobus aided it with pitons. Much of the gear is still fixed, or at least it was when I got on it in 2004.* It is also recommended as a good route for practicing clean aid, because it's safe but wildly exposed -- lots of hang time.
That is how I went up it, as a night-time rope solo. Finding the old fixed pieces by headlamp, often with antique 'biners hanging off them, felt like a treasure hunt. Rather than trying to clean it by rappelling and/or down-climbing, I fixed the middle of my rope (70m) at the top, descended the free end, and followed the GTL back to my ground anchor (a tree). Then I partly jugged and partly re-climbed the route, cleaning as I went, and rapped Arrow.
P1: From the GT ledge, climb the face just right of the hollow right-facing corner above P1 of Andrew, or climb inside the corner/chimney until you can traverse out and up left to the first roof section. Look for fixed gear in the crack under the huge roof looming above. Follow that crack left about 25 feet, then switch to a diagonal crack that exits the roof and goes into a small right-facing corner. Stop here to set up a hanging belay (80 feet, 5.13b G, maybe 5.6 R at the start).
P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG).
(*YMMV of course.)
That is how I went up it, as a night-time rope solo. Finding the old fixed pieces by headlamp, often with antique 'biners hanging off them, felt like a treasure hunt. Rather than trying to clean it by rappelling and/or down-climbing, I fixed the middle of my rope (70m) at the top, descended the free end, and followed the GTL back to my ground anchor (a tree). Then I partly jugged and partly re-climbed the route, cleaning as I went, and rapped Arrow.
P1: From the GT ledge, climb the face just right of the hollow right-facing corner above P1 of Andrew, or climb inside the corner/chimney until you can traverse out and up left to the first roof section. Look for fixed gear in the crack under the huge roof looming above. Follow that crack left about 25 feet, then switch to a diagonal crack that exits the roof and goes into a small right-facing corner. Stop here to set up a hanging belay (80 feet, 5.13b G, maybe 5.6 R at the start).
P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG).
(*YMMV of course.)
Location
Starting from the GT ledge to the right of Andrew P1, the route goes up near the hollow corner, trends left under the prominent roof. then escapes through a left-leaning diagonal crack. Cleaning the route on descent would be difficult. From the top, it's a short walk to the rap anchors on Arrow or Three Doves.
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