Anyone make a 2' (60 cm) Dyneema quickdraw?

Went home yesterday and worked on rocknice2's suggestion for a solution. I did not have any rubber bands or tape available, but I do believe they would work well for this setup.

Here is what I started with (webbing was cut to a longer lenght than the sling so that when over the sling it will keep some compression against the carabiners which makes it very difficult for the sling loop to become exposed.) It would be a good idea to routinely inspect for any wear due to the sling being hidden.:


Finished (no rubber bands or tape used):

Made to rack on harness comparison:


Even without the rubber band or tape I had to manipulate the carabiner, by slightly twisting and pushing due to the webbing compressing on the carabiner, to get the sling to this position. However remote it may be, there is still a possible issue. I believe this is where the rubber band or some such could help keep from happening.


Here is how I learned to deal with this problem:


Edit to add:
The carabiner that Grivel makes looks interesting. Thanks for posting that Ted.

my $0.02-- I use steel auto-locking carabiners for everything...

wait no

I understand that this unclipping scenario is a risk, and someone is in the hospital because of it...

..but there are many, many other (more likely) risky things that are a part of rock-climbing. If this unclipping scenario is an unacceptable risk to you, it may be time to re-evaluate doing lead-climbing in general...

Anything that potentially conceals damage is a no go to me.

mpech wrote:my $0.02-- I use steel auto-locking carabiners for everything... wait no I understand that this unclipping scenario is a risk, and someone is in the hospital because of it... ..but there are many, many other (more likely) risky things that are a part of rock-climbing. If this unclipping scenario is an unacceptable risk to you, it may be time to re-evaluate doing lead-climbing in general...

Its not unacceptable, but if one goes hard and is taking many a winger onto a long runner repeatedly, why not reduce the risk of said failure mode to zero? As I said, I carry only one of these grivel carabiners, meaning the other 12 pieces of pro or whatever are standard runners. And that one carabiner doesn't even come out unless the gear to there has been suspect/tiny in some way...

Scenario: Climbing a thin granite seam... RP, RP, metolius #0, sinker metolius #1 extended... Here comes the crux at my limit, fall possible maybe more than one as I push myself, good thing that #1 was good and I put on a fool proof biner that took like an extra second to clip. Bombs away, all day.

A rock fall could smoke you at any moment. But if risk management is within ones agency, and does not impinge on the fun of the adventure, it's cool with me.

As if climbing wasn't f'ing scary enough.

Ted Angus wrote: But if risk management is within ones agency, and does not impinge on the fun of the adventure, it's cool with me.

This is my philosphy. Manage the risk you can control, don't stress over what you can't.

Bigfeet beat me to it, but I will add:
If you were to thread the lower biner through the upper, rather than clipping it, and clip the loop it creates, it would rack more like an alpine draw.
-Mackley

Would anyone mind forwarding the original post to the story. I'm interested to read about this accident.

Scottmx426,

bearbreeder has started a great thread on this issue and has given us possible ways to solve the problem. I believe there is a link to the climber's story as well.

mountainproject.com/v/preve…

CAMP gym safe biner (13$) has a retaining pin to keep the dogbone in place. downside: steel body
camp-usa.com/products/carab…